Virtual Travels

ISRAEL PILGRIMAGE – NOVEMBER 14-28, 1998

11/16 (Monday) We will travel from Jerusalem south and pass by the Jericho oasis, but will not be able to go into Jericho, until later.  We will continue down into the Dead Sea area to Qumran.

Qumran is 1080 ft below sea level and is about 12 miles S of Jericho on the Israeli occupied West Bank of the Jordan. Qumran became famous when a young Bedouin found the Dead Sea Scrolls in a cave overlooking Qumran in 1947.

Qumran is a monastery like settlement possibly of the Essenes. More than 500 Hebrew manuscripts have been found in the caves around Qumran. To date, there have been manuscripts discovered in 11 caves. These manuscripts were in the form of scrolls and were kept in pottery jars with lids. Almost all of them are made from parchment. Most of them date from the 1^st Century BC. They are the oldest surviving manuscripts of the Bible. These manuscripts included all of the books of the Old Testament, except Esther. The Essenes were the third of the main Jewish religious parties, after the Sadducees and Pharisees. They began about 150 BC as a result of conflicts in Jerusalem over the Temple and the service at the Temple. The Essenes were against the union in one person of both royal and priestly power. They condemned the religious community in Jerusalem. The 4,000 members of the Essene sect were scattered all over Israel, with about 200 of them located in Qumran. We find them arriving at Qumran about 150 BC. The Essenes lived a very strict communal life and were committed to following with minute detail the requirements of the scripture as to cleanliness.

About 5 miles south of Qumran we will come toMetsukei Dragot, a wilderness camp that is 900 feet above the Dead Sea floor.   Next to Metsukei Dragot is the Wadi Darga (in Hebrew known as Nakhal Darga). The Wadi Darga runs from Jerusalem all the way down to the Dead Sea.  When there is a heavy rain in the Jerusalem area, one must really pay attention to the water coming down the Nakhal Darga because it will flood. Metsukei Dragot was an Israeli outpost when the Israelis were fighting the Jordanians. This particular area was called the Green Line and was the edge of their territory.

Our next stop is En Gedi—in Hebrew this means “goat’s spring”. After the Israelite’s occupation of the Promise Land, we find En Gedi referred to as a city of the tribe of Judah (Joshua 15:62). David fled from Saul to En Gedi (1 Samuel 24:2-23). En Gedi is referred to in the Song of Solomon 1:14 as a place of singular beauty. En Gedi has been occupied since the fourth millenium BC. The En Gedi Nature Park has a great deal of flora and fauna and is the home to Ibexes, leopards, hyenas, and many species of birds. The entrance to the park is on a road, which branches off from the lakeside road. En Gedi is 900 ft below Sea Level.

Masada, a few miles down the road, is a massive rock that rises 1400 ft above the level of the Dead Sea. It is a place where Jewish zealots held out against the Romans for three years after the fall of Jerusalem until AD 73. The first fortress built on Masada was built by Alexander Jannaeus about 100 BC. Alexander Jannaeus is the grandnephew of Judas Maccabeus. About 40 BC, Herod developed this fortress into a magnificent palace with tremendous defensive strength. Herod brought his family and his family and his wife-to-be, Mariamne, to Masada when he was seeking safety from the Parthians in 40 BC. We will take the cable car to the top of Masada and tour the site. The top of Masada is more than 20 acres and is surrounded by a 4,600-foot long casement wall that includes living quarters and guardrooms. The northern palace appears to hang off the very side of the mountain. Looking out at the floor of the Dead Sea area from the northern palace area, you can see where Silva made his camp. Silva was the Roman general that besieged Masada. In addition to the northern palace, there’s a bathhouse, a mitva (which is a ritual bath found on Masada), a synagogue, a Byzantine chapel and a western palace. We will be at Masada approximately 2 hours.

We will travel south from Masada to Ye’elim where we will spend the night.   Ye’elim is near Eilat.

11/17 (Tuesday) We will visit Eilat, Timnah Mines and journey north to Arad for overnight.

11/18 (Wednesday) Arad is 2100 feet above sea level. Tel Arad is 6 miles west of the modern city of Arad. It is a side road off the primary road that goes to Beersheba. The occupation of Tel Arad dates back to the 4^th millennium BC. There was a large Canaanite town that was built at Arad in the 2^ndmillennium BC. They repelled the Israelites in Numbers 21:1 and were captured by Joshua (12:14). Solomon further developed this town and built a temple to Jehovah on the height on this site about 920 BC. Arad is one of those locations referred to by the prophets as a high place that were an abomination unto God. Arad maintained its importance as a city in Israel until about the 7^thcentury AD, when the Islamic campaign conquered this part of Israel. The most important building at this site, is the Jewish temple in the NW part of the citadel of the Israelite City of Tel Arad. Note that within this particular temple, there is a Holy of Holies that is fashioned after Solomon’s temple in Jerusalem (1 Kings 17:21). King Josiah destroyed these other high places and concentrated worship in the temple in Jerusalem.

We will visit Beersheva and then continue back towards Jerusalem stopping at Lachish, which is about 6 miles SE of Kiryat Gat.  This particular site was occupied in the 3^rd Century BC and became a Canaanite town in the 2^nd millennium. It is mentioned in letters found in Tel El Armana. Joshua defeated Lachish (Joshua 10) at the same time that he destroyed Mareshah. Solomon’s son, Rehoboam, fortified Lachish (2 Chronicles 11:11). King Amaziah of Judah was killed here, 2 Kings 14:19, in the 8^thCentury BC and Lachish was captured in 701 BC by the Assyrian king, Sennacherib (2 Kings 18:13-17) In 588 BC, Nebuchadnezzar conquered the town. Today, Lachish is a moshav. A moshav is a cooperative where individuals own their own homes and property, but work together to produce agricultural goods. A kibbutz is a village, which is communally owned and run by all of the inhabitants. The members of the kibbutz contribute their labor, and in return receive board, lodging, and pocket money. The kibbutz also looks after the education of the children.

We will be on the road to Bet Guvrin, when we leave Lachish. We will see Crusader ruins along the road. We will leave the main road and travel 3 km, traveling around Bet Guvrin and a circular road that surrounds Tel Mareshah. Nothing is visible on the surface. From the Bible we know that the city that was fortified by Rehoboam had storehouses and an armory and that Sennacherib destroyed this city in 701 BC (Micah 1:15). Mareshah became part of Idumeah after this time. The Ptolemies established a colony of Sidonians in the city in the 3^rd Century BC. It was a center for slave trade with Egypt. Mareshah may have been the birthplace of Herod the Great. This could be why the Parthians destroyed this city.   Early Christians used the Bell caves at Bet Guvrin as refuges.

We will continue our journey from Bet Guvrin towards Jerusalem, passing through the Elah Valley, and then by Tel Azekah, an ancient Israelite city, and then about 8-km north we will come to Bet Shemesh. At Tel Bet Shemesh we can observe the fields of Nahal Sorek. This is the area where Samson met Delilah (Judges 16). Bet Shemesh controlled access to the mountains of Judah through the Sorek Valley. The Philistines sent the Israelite Arch of the Covenant back to Israel through the Sorek Valley and by Tel Bet Shemesh (1 Samuel 5).

We will continue NE on Hwy 38 to Junction 395 where we will turn E and head into Jerusalem. This is the end of a very long day. We will have traveled more than 350 km this day. We will be staying at the St. George’s Cathedral Guesthouse in Jerusalem, about 4 blocks from the gates of the old city of Jerusalem for two nights (11/18 & 11/19).

11/19 (Thursday) We will visit the Damascus Gate and enter the Old City.  The gates and walls are an important element of the city of Jerusalem. Sultan Suleiman built the magnificent Damascus Gate. The walls around Jerusalem are 3 miles in length, with an average height of 40 ft. and a thickness of 9 feet. The current wall structure was built in 1537. The Damascus Gate is named because that is the highway that leaves this gate, heads north, through Nablus, to Damascus. Damascus Gate is the best-fortified opening in the Old City Wall. Below the Gate is the entrance to the ancient Roman City of Jerusalem.

The Old City of Jerusalem is divided up into four quarters. The Christian quarter, The Armenian quarter, the Jewish quarter and the Moslem quarter. The Damascus gate leads to the entrance to the Moslem quarter, and the Moslem quarter covers the northeast side of the Old City. Suk Khan E-Zeit separates the Moslem quarter from the Christian quarter. It bisects the city north to south. David St. runs from Jaffa gate to Suk Khan E-Zeit and then changes name to Chain St. and runs on to the Dome of the Rock, or the Temple Mount area, also called Haram e-Sharif. It separates the Christian quarter from the Armenian quarter and then on the SE side of the old city is the Jewish quarter. Starting at the Damascus gate on the northern side of the Old City, and walking counter clockwise the next gate is the New gate. Jaffa gate is on the West Side of the city and the next gate is the Mount Zion Gate. About a quarter of a mile east is the Dung Gate, and on the E side is the Golden Gate and the Lion Gate (or St. Stephen’s gate). Turning around to the northern side of the city is Herod’s Gate, a couple of blocks down from the Damascus gate. One of the key sites that we will visit in the Old City will be the Western Wall in the Jewish quarter. We will also visit several sites in the Jewish quarter itself, including the Cardo, which is the Roman level city of Jerusalem.

On 11/20/97, Friday morning, after an Israeli breakfast, we will be on the road by 7 a.m. We will travel northwest to Caesarea on Hwy 4. Caesarea is located on the northern tip of the Sharon plain. Caesarea, is covered with restored Roman, Byzantine, and Crusader ruins. It is an interesting place to visit because of the majesty of some of the ruins that have been left there, and maintained over the years because they were covered up by the sand dunes. Herod the Great gave Caesarea its name. Herod called the port Sebastos, which was Greek for Augustus. Herod, who was appointed King of the Jews about 30 BC by Augustus Caesar, began construction of his city in 22 BC. Caesarea was an ancient Phoenician port called Stratos Tower. The city included palaces, temples, a theatre, a marketplace, a hippodrome, water and sewage systems, and a lot of other beautiful public structures, some of which are in the process of being restored right now. Caesarea became the seat of the Roman procurators after Herod’s death. The Romans preferred Caesarea to Jerusalem because of the predominantly Jewish population in Jerusalem. During the entire time of the Roman rule of Israel there were riots, revolts and irritating problems with the Jews. It was Caesarea where Peter converted the Roman centurion, Cornelius. It was Caesarea where the rebellion of AD 66 began.

We will begin our tour of Caesarea at the Roman theatre. Just inside the theatre is a monument with an inscription by Pontius Pilate. Herod built the original theatre. In subsequent centuries, many elements were modified, some added, some taken away. The semi-circular platform behind the stage is dated to the third century AD. The great walls with towers are part of a Byzantine fortress of the sixth century AD. There is a Herodian harbor here just north of the amphitheater, that is the reason for Caesarea’s existence. When Herod built the harbor he used many engineering methods that are surprising even today. One of the things they mastered was the ability to pour concrete undersea. It was a tremendous place of commerce! The Crusader City at Caesarea represents only a small fraction of the area that the Roman City covered. Both the Herodian City and the Byzantine City were much larger than the Crusader City. The walls that we see around the Crusader City were built approximately 1250 AD.

Leaving Caesarea, we travel north to Muhraqa. Just as we get to the Or Akiva junction and Hwy 4 we will stop for groceries, particularly water and fruit. Then turning north on Hwy 70 and NE on Hwy 672 we will travel to Muhraqa. Muhraqa is located 3 km out a bumpy dirt road. It is the location of a Carmelite Monastery that is the traditional location where the struggle between Elijah and the priests of Baal took place. Muhraqa is an Arabic word for a place of burning. It refers to the fire that consumed Elijah’s offering. This particular location is a peak that is 482 meters above sea level, and has a stunning view of the Jezreel Valley. The conflict between Elijah and the prophets of Baal can be found in 1 Kings 18.

We will now retrace our route back to Hwy 672 and turn S to Hwy 6953E to Hwy 66. We will turn SE on Hwy 66 and travel to Megiddo. Megiddo is the biblical site where the conflict to end all wars takes place in Revelations 16:16. It is at the head of the most important pass through the Carmel range. This location gives Megiddo control of the way of the sea.

Historians have discovered that Megiddo was a strongly fortified city even before 3000 BC. We find the first discovery of its name, at the temple of Karnak, dated to May of 1468 BC. The Israelites in Judges 1:27, were unable to conquer Megiddo. David was probably the first Israelis conqueror of Megiddo. There are 20 different cities that have been built on the site of Megiddo. In the reception area, there is an excellent model of several of these ancient cities that were constructed at Megiddo. Megiddo has never been inhabited again after the Fourth Century BC. Probably we will complete our tour of Megiddo at lunchtime, and will have lunch in the cafeteria at the site.

When we leave Megiddo, we will travel Hwy 66 N to Hwy 722, turning right and traveling about 3 km toBeit Shearim. Beit Shearim is in the extreme NW corner of the Jezreel Valley. There are 31 catacombs cut into the hillsides. This place is a necropolis, a city of the dead. We know that in the time of Josephus, this particular estate belonged to Berniece, the great-grand daughter of Herod the Great. The Sanhedrin relocated to this particular site about 165 AD. Rabbi Judah Ha-Nasi was the rabbi that began this relocation process, even though he lived in Sepphoris. He planned for his burial to be at Beit Shearim, and in fact he is buried here. Jewish leaders had always desired to be buried on the Mt. Of Olives where the Messiah was expected to appear, but it became impossible for them to be buried in or around Jerusalem. Beit Shearim was the ideal alternative. This was because of the love of this area that Rabbi Judah Ha-Nasi had. For 100 years, Jews from throughout Israel and the Diaspora brought their dead to this place and buried them here. Services to the dead became the main industry of Beit Shearim. The City of the Dead ceased to be an active place of burial after 350 AD.

There are many pictures that have been carved into the Sarcophagi in Catacomb 20. These are pictures of Aphrodite, Nike, Amazons, and other pagan mythological figures. It indicates that the rabbis of the third century AD made a distinction between images that were intended for worship, and images that were intended as simply decoration. This mitigated the absolute character of the second commandment in Exodus 20:4-5 and Deuteronomy 5: 8-9, indicating that one should not have any images before you.

From Beit Shearim, we will travel to Mt. Tabor. Mt. Tabor is mentioned in Matthew 17:1-8 (The Transfiguration of Jesus). Deborah and Barak (Judges 5:4) fought the Canaanites here in 1125 BC. Hosea in 5:1 condemns Jewish worship on Mt. Tabor. Jeremiah mentions it in 46:18.

We will travel to the Sea of Galilee and check into Vared Ha Galil overlooking the Sea, where we will spend the next three nights.  We will have our evening meal at Nof Ginosar.  This is a kibbutz on the Sea of Galilee.

On 11/21/98, Saturday morning, after an Israeli breakfast, we will travel west to Nazareth.  Nazareth is the largest Arab community outside of Jerusalem. The Arabs in Nazareth are half Christian and half Moslem. This is the hometown of Jesus as a child. We will travel through Nazareth on Paulus VI St. and visit the Church of the Annunciation. Note that this Church of the Annunciation that we will visit is the Greek Orthodox Church of St. Gabriel. This is believed to be the site of the Annunciation, and is probably as close as the Catholic Church of the Annunciation. We will pass the Baptist Church just a few yards up the street from the Greek Orthodox Church and then we will travel from Nazareth toZippori, also known as Sepphoris.

This particular city is the location of the traditional birthplace of Mary. Zippori is a Jewish town from the 1^st Century BC and had people living there up until  Middle Ages. There is significant evidence that the Jewish, Christian, and Pagan communities lived together at this site around the 3^rd Century AD. The Jewish high court, the Sanhedrin relocated here about that same period. There have been extensive excavations at Zippori, and it is an excellent site to look at some of the early Roman remains, including the Mona Lisa of the Galilee.

Old Akko. Akko is spelled several different ways, sometimes several ways on one map. For example, you will find it spelled Acre often times. We will walk through the entire town of Akko, including back streets, the harbor walls and the marketplace. One of the things to note is that the Crusader fortress at Akko only accounts for 1/20^th of the port of Akko. Indeed, when we find the Jews coming back to Israel during the early stages of WWII, we find them coming to the port at Akko.

The first mention of Akko is in Egypt in the 19^thCentury BC. When the Israelites come into the land of Israel in Judges 1:31 that they did not acquire control of Akko. It remained in the hands of the Phoenicians. Akko was one of the best harbors on the Eastern Mediterranean. It was a harbor of strategic importance, both militarily and commercially. Alexander the Great favored Akko over Tire and Sidon, and in 333 BC built a port in Akko that functioned for 600 years. At Alexander’s death, the Ptolemies of Egypt gained control of Akko and changed its name to Ptolemais. They lost control of Akko in 200 BC to the Selucids of Syria.

Pompey conquered Akko in 63 BC, and the city stayed under the control of the Romans for two centuries. After the founding of Caesarea, Akko began to wane in importance. Paul spent a day in Akko, noted in Acts 21:7. Saladin captured Akko in 1187. The entrance to the underground city is just across from the mosque of El-Jazzar. The Subterranean Crusader City closes at 1pm on Friday.

When we complete our visit at Akko, we will return to Hwy 4 and travel N to Rosh Hanikra on the border of Lebanon. We will not take the cable car ride down to the grottos below the cliffs at Rosh Hanikra, but you can still see the route of the railway line that was built through the caves to extend the Cairo railroad all the way to Beirut. There are two tunnels at the mouths of the grottos below. We will travel S on Hwy 4 to Hwy 899, turning E to travel to Goren Park, which is approximately 10km, to an overlook of the Medieval Castle of Montfort. The journey takes about one hour in our physical condition. We will not take that walk. Montfort was built in the 12^th Century by French Crusaders. It was sold to the German Knights of the Teutonic Order in the 13^th Century AD. The Germans used this castle as a place to house their archives and treasury.

On 11/22/98, Sunday morning after our Israeli breakfast and a devotional time, we will depart Vared Ha Galil at 8am and travel just a few km toKorazim. Korazim is a well-excavated site that includes a synagogue and several fairly well excavated homes. Korazim is a small Jewish town that is mentioned by Jesus for their lack of faith in Matthew 11. The most important building in Korazim is the black basalt synagogue.

We will now travel back down to the lake, to the town of Capernaum. The Bible tells us in Matthew 4 that Jesus left Nazareth and came and dwelt in Capernaum. Here Jesus calls his first disciples, Simon Peter, Andrew, James, and John. He preached in the synagogue at Capernaum in Mark 1:23 –26. He healed many that were lame, blind, dumb, and maimed in Matthew 15:29-31. In Luke 7:1-10, Jesus cured the Centurion’s servant. In Mark 5:35-42, Jesus raised Jairus’ daughter from the dead. Capernaum is not mentioned in the Old Testament, and was established in the early 2^nd Century BC. It was a small town that took no part in the Jewish uprisings against Rome in the 1^st and 2^nd Centuries. Capernaum was a prosperous town, evidenced by the fact that the synagogue was made of imported limestone.

Next we will visit St. Peter’s Church. This is a chapel that was built in the 4^th Century. The Franciscans reconstructed the present chapel in 1933. This chapel building commemorates the appearance of the risen Christ to his disciples on the shores of the lake mentioned in John 21:15-16 and the admonition of Jesus to Peter to “feed my lambs.”

Just a short way from the primacy of Peter, we will visit Tabgha. This is the place of the seven springs. In Hebrew, it’s En Sheva. This is the traditional site of the multiplication of the loaves and fishes in Mark 8: 1-9. The German Holy Land Association of Cologne, Germany completed the current church at this site in 1982. We will leave Tabgha, also known as the Heptapagon, and travel up the side of the hill, to theMt. of the Beatitudes. It is located on the northern shore of the Sea of Galilee and is just above the ruins at Tabgha and Capernaum. This is the location of the place where tradition says Christ preached the Sermon on the Mount in Matthew 5-7.

When we complete our time at the Mt. of Beatitudes, we will return to Hwy. 90 and travel N to Rosh Pina, with a stop at McDonald’s for coffee. We will continue our journey up Hwy 90 to Tel Hatzor. Across the street from Tel Hatzor is the Tel Hatzor Museum. We will visit the museum. Tel Hatzor is currently under excavation and has 21 separate occupation levels, the latest one being dated to the 2^nd Century BC, while the oldest occupation level is dated back to 2600 BC. Joshua 11:10 says that Hazor was the head of many pre-Israelite kingdoms. Joshua defeated the last king of this Canaanite kingdom, King Jabin, in the 13^th Century BC. Solomon developed a large fortified city at Hazor. Ahab increased the size of Hazor, even though his capital city was in Samaria.

Tel Dan is the next site that we will visit. Tel Dan is located on the River Dan, which is one of three sources of water for the Jordan. Tel Dan was the location of the Canaanite city of Leshem Joshua 19:47. It was also called Laish. The Jewish tribe of Dan in Judges 18 conquered it and renamed the city Dan. Jeroboam the First set up one of the two golden calves here at Dan, which was the northern limit of his empire. The other calf was at Bethel, 1 Kings 12:28-30. There is also a very large kibbutz located at Tel Dan next to the Dan nature reserve.

Caesarea Philippi is the next location that we will visit. Caesarea Philippi is mentioned in Matthew 16:13-20. It is located near the village of Banias. It is in the middle of an extraordinarily beautiful nature reserve. Banias is a place of pagan worship that dates back to the Greek times. At this site, there were many different groups that came and worshipped various gods, especially the Greek god, Pan. Phillip, the son of Herod, established his capital here at Caesarea Philippi and named it in honor of the Roman emperor.

From Caesarea Philippi, we will travel south and head back down to the Sea of Galilee. We will journey around the Sea of Galilee to the modern city ofTiberias. Tiberias is 696 ft. below sea level. Herod Antipas, the son of Herod the Great, founded Tiberias in 17 AD, naming it after the Roman emperor Tiberias. Pious Jews regarded this city, as unclean and originally only pagans would live here. In the 2^ndCentury AD, Rabbi Simon Bar Yohai declared Tiberias clean, and it became the seat of the Sanhedrin. From the 3^rd Century AD, Tiberias became the spiritual center of Judaism. The Jews renamed Tiberias, Teverya, which means navel, for they considered it the navel of the world. It was here that the Mishna (200BC) and the Talmud (400 BC) were completed. Tiberias is a beautiful location. There are quite a number of excellent restaurants that overlook the Sea of Galilee here.

11/23, Monday morning, we will leave Vared Ha Galil about 8am and travel S to Belvoir, off of Hwy 90. Belvoir was built by the French Knights, Hospitallers, and has a spectacular view of the Jordan Valley. Its Hebrew name is Kokhav Ha Yarden. That means, “Star of the Jordan.” Belvoir was built in 1130 AD and was increased in size in 1168. Saladin conquered the French Knights in 1191 AD. They regained Belvoir in 1241,but it only lasted for a very short period. The castle is located 500 m above the Jordan Valley.

Beth Shean is just a short distance S of Belvoir on Hwy 90. Beth Shean was a Philistine town and was conquered by David. The Philistines defeated Saul and Jonathan near Mt. Gilboa in 1010 BC and hung Saul’s body on the walls of Beth Shean (1 Samuel 31). Beth Shean has a beautiful Roman theatre built in the late 2^nd Century AD. It would seat 6,000 spectators and had a second level, which was an engineering marvel. Beth Shean is the most important Roman period site in Israel. There is a significant amount of development that’s gone into this site, and indicates, from what’s been found, the level of importance that this city was in the Roman Empire. Beth Shean has been continuously occupied over 5000 years. It is mentioned as a city of Solomon’s empire (965-928 BC) in 1 Kings 4:12.

We will continue our drive south down the Jordan Valley until we turn inland from the Dead Sea to Jerusalem. The River Jordan flows out of the Sea of Galilee and into the Dead Sea. The Jordan is not deep or wide, but is extremely important for the Christian faith. The three main sources for the Jordan are in the northern part of Israel. Stream number 1 is the Hazbani, which comes out of Lebanon. The Dan comes out of the Dan Nature Reserve. The Banias comes out of the village by that same name. These three streams join together at the Hula basin and the Jordan River flows through a narrow valley into the Sea of Galilee and then out the end of the Sea of Galilee some 37 miles later.

Tuesday-11/24-Friday 11/27

We will spend the remainder of our time in Jerusaelm.  Our residence will be St. Georges Cathedral Guesthouse.  I’m not sure when we will get on the Temple Mount area. On the Temple Mount we will visit the El Aksa Mosque, the Dome of the Rock, and the backside of the Golden Gate. The Temple Mount is the holiest place on earth for the Jewish nation. Jordan currently controls it, but of course the Palestinians would like very much to control it. It is the most important Islam shrine after Mecca and Medina. It was at the Temple Mount that the infant Jesus was presented in the Temple (Luke 2:22) and again where the 12yr old boy talked with the scribes (Luke 2:46) and then later cast out the merchants and moneychangers (Matthew 21:12). It was the pinnacle of the temple where Jesus was tempted by the Devil (Matthew 4:5).

Solomon built the first temple about 950 BC. Additionally, he built his palace on or near this location (1 Kings 5:6). Solomon’s temple stood for 400 years, until its destruction by Nebuchadnezzar in 587 BC. After the period of captivity, the second temple was built by Ezra, and then was again destroyed during the Maccabean rebellion. Herod rebuilt the temple the third time during his period of rule in Israel between 37-4 BC. The Romans destroyed this third temple in 70 AD. This was the last Temple Structure on the Temple Mount area. The Wailing Wall is a place for prayer and is located at the closest site to what would have been the Holy of Holies on the Temple Mount area. The Dome of the Rock on the Temple Mount area is built over the Rock of Moriah, which is the point from which Mohammed ascended to the 7^th heaven and then returned to Mecca. The Dome of the Rock was built in 680 AD and the El Aksa Mosque was completed in 715 AD.

We enter on the Western side of the Old City at Jaffa Gate. This particular gate is the link between the new Jewish town to the west and the old city to the east. The opening in the walls and the gate area was done in 1898 to allow the German Emperor and Empress to drive into the Old City. It is now a motor traffic entrance. Immediately inside the Jaffa Gate is the Citadel, known as David’s Tower. It has no connection to David, but was built by Herod and named after his brother Phasael. It houses a museum on the history of Jerusalem. Opposite the entrance to the Citadel is Christ’s Church, which was built in 1849. Approximately 100 yards south, on the left, on Armenian Patriarchite St. is the Armenian Tavern. Hopefully we will get there to eat at least once. We will continue down Armenian Patriarchite St., bearing to the left into the Jewish Quarter. We will see Hurva Synagogue arch, which is all that is left of the Synagogue. It was destroyed in the conflict of 1948. The Cardo was excavated between 1976 and 1985, and it runs for 220 yards, lying 20 ft below the modern ground level. This is a reproduction of a Roman avenue, as it would have been in ancient times. We will visit the Herodian House and Burnt House in this area also. Both of these houses relate to the early Roman period of control in Israel. Traveling on through the Jewish quarter we will visit several shops and ultimately come out at theWestern Wall, or the Wailing Wall. Note that we are again at the Temple Mount area.

As we continue our journey in the city, one of the things to see is the Golden Gate on the eastern side of the Temple Mount. This particular gate was walled up by the Arabs and for good measure they laid out a cemetery outside the gate.

Within the Old City we will travel the Via Dolorosa. It begins at St. Stephen’s Gate and continues across the Old City to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is one of the most sacred places in Christendom. Tradition has it that it is built on the site of Christ crucifixion and tomb. Note that there is considerable conflict, or doubt, as to where the actual crucifixion took place.

General Gordon, a British general, in the 19^th Century suggested that the crucifixion and burial were at another location right up from the Damascus Gate area. We will visit Gordon’s Calvary and the garden tomb quite frequently while we are in Jerusalem. Archaeological evidence does not prove out the Gordon tomb site, but it is a very quiet and restful place for prayer and reflection. Outside of the Old City, and on the eastern side, is the Garden of Gethsemane. This is the place of the oil press. (Matthew 26:36 & Luke 22:41-44)

We will visit the Church of All Nations across Kidron Valley from the Golden Gate. St. Peter in Gallicantu is on the southern side of the old city, and would have been on the pathway that Jesus would have taken from the Last Supper location on Mt. Zion to Gethsemane. This is the location that commemorates the three denials of Christ by Peter (Matthew 26:69).

The Church of the Dormition is up the hill on Mt. Zion. The Upper Room where Christ celebrated the Last Supper with his disciples (Matthew 26:17-30, Mark 14:12-25, and Luke 22:7-20); and also the place where the Holy Ghost descended on the Apostles at Pentecost (Acts 2). The tomb of King David has been revered on Mt. Zion since the 12^thCentury.

Friday- 11/27- 10:00 p.m. DEPART ISRAEL FOR USA
Saturday – 11/28 – Arrive at various locations in USA

INFORMATION for the TRIP

We will be in Israel during the change of season. Expect rain, mid-70’s day and mid-50’s night. Pack rain gear and a coat.  We will experience a little cool weather and a little warm weather.

Suggestions:
Bring $300 spending money, a credit card that works on the Cirrus and/or Plus networks and a telephone card.  The shekel/dollar rate is about 3.5 shekels per dollar.  The country code for Israel is 972.

The electrical system for Israel is 220. Few places will have 110V, so for specific things you will need a multi-voltage converter. Camcorders & Video-recorders often have the worldwide AC Adapter charger, so you will also want to check that. For your camera, I would suggest that you bring all of the film that you want to use in Israel, with you. It is fairly expensive to buy film in Israel. If your film is below ISO400, you shouldn’t have any problem with the x-ray machine. There shouldn’t be any problem for your camcorder videotape. Also, the videotapes in Israel are very expensive, so I would not suggest buying any videotape in Israel.

Make sure that you have a health insurance card or some other evidence of insurability in case of an accident. 

We will be in Israel for 13 nights and traveling 2 nights.  All of our activities will be casual.  Jeans or sweat pants will be adequate. I generally take with me t-shirts, a light jacket, rain slick, 2 sweatshirts, 3 pair of slacks, 15 pair of socks, and a travel vest. I will layer with the travel vest. A couple of the days will be windy and chilly, so you will need to bring a  coat.   Please remember to bring an extra pair of comfortable shoes.  Try to pack all of your stuff in one bag and they will check it thru to Tel Aviv.  I would suggest a travel wallet for money and important documents.  You will have to keep your passport with you at all times.  The watch word is pack light.  Bring any medications that you need, with prescriptions and this should include Imodium and aspirin.

We will leave New Orleans at about 10am on Saturday morning and arrive in Tel Aviv the next afternoon about 3:30 p.m. When we get to the airport, check into the rental car agency, and leave we should have about an hour  trip to St. George’s Cathedral Guest House where we will be staying for the evening.

Each day we will be doing a lot of walking. The total amount of mileage that we will drive over the 14 days will be about 1800 miles. Our longest driving days will be on 11/16 (day two in country) and 11/17 (day three in country).

Places we will stay while in Israel:
St. George’s Cathedral Pilgrim Guest House  (11/15, 18, 19, 23-27)
20 Nablus Road,  P.O. Box 19018, Jerusalem, 91190
Tel- 011-972-2-628-3302; Fax- 011-972-2-628-2253

Margoa Arad Hotel  (11/17)
PO.B. 20, Moab Street, Arad 89100
Tel- 011-972-7-995-1222; Fax- 011-7-995-7778

Vared Hagalil Guest Farm  (11/20-23)
M.P. Korazim 12340, Israel
Fax- 011-972-6-693-4964

Tom Brimmer will be our Israel Contact.  
(H) 011-972-2-676-0862; cellphone 011-972-052-874-285

Summary Schedule:
11/14/98- Arrive airport approx. 9:00a. Depart New Orleans 
11/15  -arrive Tel Aviv 3:50p.  It will take us about an hour to get luggage, cash, clear customs and retrieve the van for our 1 hour trip to Jerusalem.   We should  arrive at St. George’s approx. 6-6:30p and supper at 7p
11/16 – depart Jerusalem for day trip down Dead Sea to Ye’Elim (near Eilot) where we will overnight at Ye’Elim Holiday Village
11/17 -travel through Negev and overnight at Margoa Arad
11/18 -follow ancient routes from Arad into Jerusalem where we will overnight at St. George’s 
11/19 Jerusalem all day.  St. Georges for overnight
11/20 Depart Jerusalem for the Galilee along the coastal route.  Our residence will be at Vared Hagalil for three nights
11/23 Depart the Galilee for our return to Jerusalem via the Jordan Valley.   We will stay at St. George’s for the remainder of our time in Israel.  Our time will be spent in touring in Jerusalem
11/27 Depart Jerusalem approximately 10p for Tel Aviv
11/28 Depart Tel Aviv 1:05a arrive New Orleans 1:24p (TWA group)

Dome of the Rock

JANUARY 10-11, 1998

A New Experience

There were 14 of us that lined up at the airport on Saturday, January 10, 1998.  In the picture above, Irvine Osborne is kneeling, (next row, l-r) Scott Landrum, Eddie Campbell, Francis Kimmett, Don Stewart, Paul Gregoire, (back row, l-r) Harold Mosely, Steve Achord, Cecil Camp, Mike Sharp, Randy Driggers, and Jeff Hathorn.   John Gibson and I are not pictured.

We survived the trip from New Orleans to New York and then to Tel Aviv.  When we got to Tel Aviv, we endured a hail storm of Biblical proportions but we made it to the Carmel Hotel in Netanya and enjoyed making the above picture with our tour host, (front left) Bennie Ruth Goodman and our experienced Israeli guide, Gilla Triebich (front center, kneeling).  John was in this pictue.   He’s on the back row in the center.

They got me (Clay Corvin) in the mugshots before we ate supper at the Carmel.  The meal was excellent.  Their bread and salads were great.

The food was good.  They took care to put it in a visually pleasing arrangement and as you can see Don Stewart is working hard at experiencing it.

Irvin said that he enjoyed the desserts the best.

The trip took about 30 hours from New Orleans to the Carmel Hotel.  I don’t think any of us slept much on the airplane.  We were worn out.  So, after a good meal and some excited conversation we all headed to our rooms.

We had a severe thunderstorm all night.

Our rooms were comfortable and the storm didn’t disturb us.  Don Stewart enjoyed his stay at the Carmel Hotel.

We were all excited about our Monday journey.  It was a restless night for several.

MONDAY MORNING, JANUARY 12, 1998 Caesarea to Megiddo We were early for breakfast.  The rain hadn’t stopped and we were excited.  It was going to be a great day.  Discovery, new sights, and the presence of the Lord. It looked ominous when we walked out of the hotel. We had a pressure packed week ahead of us and bad weather would really cutback on our trip.  However, it was not to be. We knew that Israel needed the rain and they got a lot of it but it was mostly at night.  Our trip was blessed with exceptionally good weather. Answered prayers often go unnoticed.  I noticed the Lord’s answer and am grateful for all that we were able to do.  The trip was superb and all the praise and honor go to the Lord for the blessings that we experienced.  Thank you Lord. Gilla gave a thorough introduction to Caesarea.  We continued our talk in the theater and then after we completed the presentation, everyone went around looking at the ancient theater of Caesarea and taking pictures. We looked at the Mediterranean when we went from the theater to the Crusader City at Caesarea. The waves were really kicking up. The Crusader City of Caesarea is built over the ancient port of Caesarea.   Herod did a phenomenal job of building the port at Caesarea. Paul was imprisoned in this general area (Acts 23:23). Steve committed to do the video for our trip.  This would be his third time to do our trip video and he was determined to keep dry and warm. He is standing in front of the Cesarean Harbor near where Paul would have landed when he sailed into Caesarea.  This was the largest Harbor on the Israeli Coast during the time of Rome’s control. Many people are surprised when they come to Caesarea and look at the Crusader ruins to find that the moat was a dry moat. When they remember how little water there is in this land it makes good sense.  It would be impossible to keep a wet moat full. The weather was still cold and threatening.   We walked up from the harbor to the main entrance of the Crusader City.  Many of the stones in the road were from Roman times. The Crusaders where great builders.  Caesarea is a real witness to their building skills. During the time of the Crusaders, Caesarea was a well fortified city but much smaller than in Roman times. We can often see through ancient eyes as we experience the present.  It requires a few moments of thought and a rememberance of how things might have been.   Our eyes are such wonderful gifts from our creator. We lingered at Caesarea for a short time, but not long.  We hustled to the aqueduct that dates to the Roman era and then turned north to Mount Carmel. We had surprises waiting for us on Mount Carmel.  It was snowing.   Really snowing.  There were a lot of people out playing in the snow. Muhraqa on Mount Carmel is the location of the Carmelite Monastery of St. Elijah, which commemorates the slaying of the prophets of Baal by Elijah. In 1 Kings 17 we are presented with the activity of the Lord among His creation.  The story of Elijah’s conquest of the pagan prophets is an excellent picture of God working through His followers. I liked the altar in the Chapel.  The stone is unfinished.  The place has a real sense of the outdoors. There is an observation deck on the top of the building.  When the sky is clear, you can see the entire Jezreel Valley. We left Muhraqa and traveled south to the ancient city of Megiddo. The approach to Megiddo is impressive.  This is a strategic location of the Ancient Middle East. Tel Megiddo was an  important city   as early as 3500 BC.  It was occupied until 400 BC.  The city was at one time owned by Egyptians, Canaanites, Israelites and several other civilizations.   This location controlled traffic between Mesopotamia and Egypt on the Via Maris. We entered the Tel from the new northern gate entrance, about 100 feet from the former ramp entrance to the site.  Note that this is a large, well preserved, archaeological site. We walked most of the site and thought deep thoughts about how things change.  Often, what we think we are seeing is changing before our very eyes.   Revelation 16:16 says that the Lord isn’t through using this place. The group walked through the water tunnel dug by King Ahab and then stopped at the cafeteria on the site for lunch.  It was a typically good Israeli meal. Our next stop was about 30 minutes north to Sepphoris. We did make a quick stop at McDonald’s for coffee enroute. MONDAY AFTERNOON, JANUARY 12, 1998 SEPPHORIS TO TIBERIAS     Sepphoris, known as Zippori, was the traditional birthplace of Mary.  It is located on highway 79 about 2.5 miles west of Nazareth. A Jewish community existed at this ancient site from the early first century BC through the middle ages.  The Jewish high court was located here during the 3rd century. Although not mentioned in the New Testament, Jesus almost assuredly walked on these Roman streets. This is an overpowering site.  The evidence of antiquities is awesome.  The sight of Nazareth on the hill and the historical wealth of this city presents a powerful image of Roman times.  This location is an important place for serious pilgrims to visit.  I always make sure that I get to Sepphoris. On the hilltop at the site there is a Roman villa.  This picture is mosiac on the floor of the dining room.  The picture doesn’t do the mosaic justice. I enjoy this pastoral setting and as long as you are up wind from the Moshav’s dairy, the smells are fresh and pleasant. We loaded the bus after a lingering walk from the Roman street, several gulping drinks and binging on ice cream bars, and a few others making quick work in the souvenir shop.  We headed west to the Israel Coast and Old Akko. We got off the bus near the El-Jazzar Mosque and began our city walk.  I love walking through the ancient streets of Akko.  It is a beautiful place and an exciting experience.  Join us in a few of the views. The side streets and backstreets of Akko are beautiful and mysterious.  Real people live here.  They seem friendly and are kind to visitors. These folks at the bakery remembered us from November when we told them we were Chris Friedmann’s friends.  Steve brought greetings back to Chris. We especially enjoy the market but it was getting near the end of the day and it was closing. We did stroll through the maket but then headed across the city to the waterfront. What a beautiful view.  It was gorgeous. We had been out and on the road and sightseeing since early in the morning.  The day was ending and we were a long ride from Tiberias and worn out.  It was a great first full day.  I think that even our guide Gilla was tired. The ride to Tiberias was comfortable and uneventful.  I love riding across the Galilee in the late afternoon. We arrived at our hotel, the Jordan River at about 7 p.m.  It was a welcome sight.  They messed up our reservations but straightened them out.   There are other more enjoyable accomodations in the Tiberias area.  I would strongly recommend the Ron Beach or Nof Ginosar.  If you are looking for an adventure and don’t mind a little longer ride each day, Ein Gev Holiday Village on the east side of the Sea of Galilee near Kursi is a delightful place to stay.  Their food is excellent. TUESDAY, JANUARY 13, 1998 To Dan and Back We finished our Israeli breakfast and went uptown in Tiberias to the boat dock near the Chinese restaurant.  We would take one of the “Jesus Boats” across the Galilee to Ginosar. The Sea of Galilee is the largest fresh-water lake in Israel.  It is fed mainly by the Jordan River and drained by the Jordan River.  It is in the shape of a harp, large in the north and much smaller in the south.  It is mentioned in Numbers 34:11 and Joshua 13:27.  The lake for the survival of the people of Israel.   It is their primary water source. The weather on the lake was chilly and forbidding but the water was smooth.  The trip was enjoyable.  I think that this was the best trip across the Galilee that I have taken. Good conversation, oohs and ahs and the typical joy of a boat ride.   It was fun. When we were a good bit of the way to Ginosar, the engines were turned off and we had a devotional time. I continued to be impressed with the personal devotionals that the members of our group shared.  They expressed the Lord’s blessings and importance in their lives.  JOY. There was a time for questions of our Israeli guide.  Although she wasn’t a senior citizen, she had many years of experience (20 I think) and was willing to field all of our questions.  The view encouraged thoughts and images about New Testament times.  Since several of our group are scholars, they had a lot of questions about Israel. The boat ride was a worthwhile part of our journey.  I will not forget that on future trips. We left the boat at Ginosar and traveled further north around the lake to Tabgha. We were just east of the Tiberias-Rosh Pina road.  The Greek name for Tabgha is Heptapegon, meaning “seven springs”.  This is the traditional site where Jesus performed the miracle of the multiplication of the loaves and fishes (Mark 6:30-44 and Matthew 14). It is a place of beauty and peace. The present church, the German Benedictine Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes was dedicated in 1982.  It is a reproduction of a Byzantine church from the mid-5th century AD. I love the date palms in Israel.  You may note that I take a lot of pictures of them.  This particular tree is expansive and pretty.  Enjoy. Immediately next to Tabgha is the Church of the Primacy of St. Peter.  It is built on the edge of the water and commemorates the appearance of Jesus in John 21. Gilla was looking for a book that she had brought.  We were still asking questions. We gathered on the shore to listen to the story.  Steve taped the event and we listened. Scott shared form the New Testament story. We walked on the shore and thought of that time. Jesus is Lord. About 2 miles east of Tabgha is Capernaum, “The Town of Jesus”. Capernaum is an ancient fishing town on the northwestern shore of the Sea of Galilee.  The site has been uninhabited since the 8th century AD.  Jesus settled here after he left Nazareth (Matthew 4:13).   The partly restored synagogue in Capernaum is dated to the latter part of the 5th century AD.  This is not the synagogue that Jesus taught in but may be over the original synagogue of Capernaum. John led in our devotional in the synagogue. Near the synagogue is the traditional location of the House of St. Peter.   There is a spaceship like edifice suspended in space over Peter’s house. Jesus taught here, called most of disciples here and worked many miracles at this place. The Franciscan Order acquired this site in 1894.  Their mission in the Holy Land is to acquire and preserve sites sacred to Christianity.  This location is an important place for Christians to visit. This olive press is made from volcanic basalt.  It’s advantages over limestone created an export industry for this area in ancient times. On a low basalt hill about 2 miles north of Capernaum is the town of Chorazin.  This was one of the largest Jewish settlements in the Lower Galilee in the time of Jesus.  It is mentioned in Matthew 11:21 and Luke 10:13 as a city where Jesus preached. They had a significant synagogue at Chorazin. Harold led our devotional in the Chorazin synagogue. This is well preserved village.  It gives a sense of the size and shape of a typical village around the Sea of Galilee. Pottery at Chorazin. We completed our visit to Chorazin and headed north.  Our tour turned north and we traveled north on Route 90.  We passed the McDonald’s at Rosh Pina without stopping.  I always enjoy that stop but we had too many miles to go this day.   We went up the Hula Valley all the way to Kiryat Shmona and turned right on Route 99 to the Dan Nature Reserve where we would stop for lunch. The Dan Cafeteria is a great place to stop for lunch.  The place is clean, the food is good and the people are friendly. We ate too much and talked too long but we had a good time.  Also, several were beginning to show the wear and tear of the plane ride and the fast paced two days of touring that we had done.  We were moving slower. When we left Dan, we stopped for a quick picture of the ancient gate at Dan that dates to the time of Abraham. Banias, which we know from the Biblical account as Caesarea Philippi, was not far from Dan.   This was a cult center dedicated to the worship of Pan, the son of Hermes.   This place was the site of hedonistic worship that was too hedonistic for even the ancient Greeks. Herod’s son, Philip, renamed this place Caesarea Philippi to distinguish it from his father’s city of Caesarea. This is a place of water and natural beauty.  We enjoyed the forest walk and the water sounds. Gideon, our driver, did a good job of getting us to where we wanted to go.  We are grateful for his careful driving and attention to our transportation needs.  Thanks! Commanding a strategic point on the Via Maris where trade routes from the north, east and west joined to enter the Promised Land is the huge ancient tel of Hazor.   In the 18th and 13th centuries BC, Hazor covered 200 acres.  It was an important trade city in the Middle East. Tel Hazor was built and rebuilt a total of 21 times. This picture is the eastern edge of the upper city of Hazor. Hazor is mentioned in Joshua 11:13. The view south from the Upper City is awesome.  It gives some indication of the strategic location of the tel. The water system was developed by King Ahab and is as complex as his water tunnel construction at Megiddo. This is a view of the Solomonic gated entrance to Hazor.  This particular type entrance has three rooms on each side of the entrance. Time was now important.  We planned to get to the Mount of the Beatitudes before 5 p.m.  We made it. This site is operated by the Franciscan Sisters of the Immaculate Heart of Mary.  This building was designed by the Italian architect Barlozzi and is octagonal.  Each of its eight walls commemorate on of the Beatitudes.  The mosaic floor is decorated with symbols of the seven virtues of man referred to in the Sermon on the Mount of Matthew 5:3-11. The gardens are beautiful. We paused for a devotional. Gorgeous palms. We were overloaded with seeing the Biblical events and our personal experiences of the day.  I assured several that when they returned home that many of the emotions of this day would return at various times that they were reading Scripture.   This journey to the Holy Land is a lifetime experience that stays with us for the rest of our lives. WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 14, 1998 Up To Jerusalem Today, we turned our attention towards Jerusalem and left Tiberias on Route 90 South.  Yardenit is our first stop.  It is located just before   the place where Route 90 crosses the Jordan River.  It is a picturesque location with huge eucalyptus trees and quiet greenish water.  Yardenit is a place of safe access to the Jordan River for Christian pilgrims. Many groups have devotional and baptismal services at this site.  The baptism of Jesus by John (Matthew 3) is traditionally believed to be further south near Jericho, but this location is a good place for Christian groups to memorialize their Holy Land visit. Just a bit beyond Yardenit we passed Degania, the very first kibbutz.   It was started in 1909 by Jewish pioneers from Eastern Europe.  They worked hard and turned swampland and rocky soil into a beautiful farm. We traveled south for about 20 minutes on Route 90 and turned right on Route 717 climbing the mountain to Kachav Hayarden (The Star of the Jordan).  This location is better known to us as Belvoir (beautiful view).  This is the location of the most invincible fortress in the Holy Land. The view of the Jordan Valley is breathtaking.  On a clear day, you can see Mt. Tabor, Sea of Galilee, hills of Samaria, the Golan, Mount Hermon, and the Yarmuk valley which is the border between Syria and Jordan. The road up the mountain to Belvoir is a narrow one-lane and winds back and forth up the mountain.  We have driven up in a driving rain on one occasion and I would not recommend that again.  We had substantially decent weather this day, even though it was rather cloudy. Belvoir was a large fortress that was completed essentially as the diagram shows by the Knights Hospitallers in 1168 AD.  Note the inner castle that provided safety for the knights from their mercenaries and serfs.  This was ultimately a contributing factor for their defeat. Saladin finally conquered the fortress in the spring of 1191 and permitted the defenders to march out of Belvoir to Akko.  The castle was completely destroyed in the 13th century when there was some concern that the Crusaders might return. We joined together in our morning devotional looking out across the Jordan Valley.  It was a memorable event.  One could almost see the history before our eyes. We completed our visit and headed back to the bus.  Randy and Bennie Ruth arrived first. Bennie Ruth represents Vision Travel, our tour host, from Miami Florida (1-800-654-4544) operated by Nina Meyer.  They do a great job.  Thanks folks. Randy is Director of Development at NOBTS. Bet Shean is 8 miles south on Route 90.  It has been continuously occupied for more than 5,000 years.  The town is surrounded by water and receives rainfall on a regular basis.  Several members of the group climbed to the top of the tel in the background.  Our seminary was involved in the digs on the top of the tel that date to Old Testament times. Bet Shean has a beautiful colonnaded street as pictured above that dates to the Byzantine period. This was a large and important Roman City.  It had many significant buildings and was the focus of economic activity for the area.  When you walk through the open areas and up and down the streets you get a real sense of the majesty of this city. The upper part of the theater is missing but it was designed to seat 5,000.  This is a beautiful theater and certainly rivals the theater in Caesarea.  There were many dramatic presentations presented on the stage of this theater.  It was a very popular venue. The group climbed to the top of the old tel.  This is the city where Saul’s body was hung on the wall (1 Sam. 31:10).  It is mentioned as a part of Solomon’s empire (1 Kings 4:12). More coffee and water and all the other things one does before a long ride.  We loaded up and drove down the Jordan Valley.  We would quickly pass out of beautiful green surroundings to desert.  It is a stunning experience as the beauty of the land unfolds.  Hills rise on both sides of the Jordan.  First were the hills of Samaria that soon gave way to the hills of Judea.  The Old Testament unfolded before us.  Also, to remember that this was often the way that Jesus would travel back and forth to Jerusalem increases the value of the drive.  Wow.  I love this trip. It didn’t take but about an hour and a half to get to Jericho.  This was the prettiest sight there.  A lot of building is going on but the place is pretty grim.  I don’t know any of the answers to all the questions that the people of this area are asking. The Tel is fairly undeveloped and begs for a new excavation.  None in sight as far as I know. There isn’t much to see but a lot to think about.  We walked the area and looked around.  As you can see by the picture below, this was an area where Jesus traveled.  The Mount of Temptation isn’t far from Jericho. We left Jericho and traveled down to  the Dead Sea.  We would return here on Friday but today we would visit Qumran, the home of the Essenes, maybe. This is the entrance area to the site.  They are doing a lot of work on their snack area and site entrance.  The cafeteria here is excellent and we enjoyed a good meal after we completed our site visit. The ruins are situated on a little plateau on the north-west shore of the Dead Sea.  It is easy to visualize the austere dedication of the people that lived at this site. Immediately to the west of the archaeological site are the caves where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found.  This is one of those caves. South of the plateau, the terrain is rugged and spectacular.  Note the erosion.  This is a combination of wind and water erosion. We left Qumran and went up to Jerusalem.  We transitioned about 3,900 feet in altitude (1,080 feet below sea level to 2,820 feet above sea level) in approximately 25 miles. We went to the Lion’s Gate (St. Stephen’s Gate) first.  We entered the old city on the eastern side of Jerusalem with a view towards the Kidron Valley and the Mount of Olives. We have passed the halfway point in our Israel trip and now we have arrived in Jerusalem. The road from halfway down in the Kidron Valley looks easy to walk up in this picture.   It isn’t.  The walk is strenuous.  Our focus now would be to travel through the Old City of Jerusalem to all of the sights on the Via Dolorosa.  This is a memorable experience.  The key thing to remember is that the traditional sights may not be what they say they are but the real thing is a stones throw from the traditional sight if the traditional sight isn’t the actual place.  This is Jerusalem, the place where the prophets were murdered.  The city that God said He loved. We sang in the Church of St. Anne.  The echoes are heart touching and the sounds spine tingling.  It was good! Immediately outside of St. Anne’s is the Pool of Bethesda.  Jesus performed miracles in this place.  He lives and because He does we can.  “Jesus loves me!” I love the street signs.  We are here. We are journeying on the Via Dolorosa. Jeff is talking every step of the way.  He brought a real zip to the trip.  “Go get ’em killer!” The folks are hugging the wall here while a speeding motorist passes.  The narrow streets carry a lot of traffic all of the time. Yvonne our TWA host and Mark her husband are discussing the events from the time of Christ as we travel along the Via Dolorosa. We had had a long day and it was nearing a close.  The bus would be waiting for us at Jaffa Gate to take us to our hotel.  It had been a long ride and lots of walks since we had left Tiberias this morning.  We had experienced the route that Jesus would often take from Tiberias up to Jerusalem.  Every time we read the accounts of John the Baptist and Jesus’ ministry in the New Testament our mind’s eye will be alert to the nuances of the Middle East.  When we read of the travels of various prophets and patriarchs in the Old Testament, we will have a much clearer understanding of what was happening.  We can be grateful to God for the blessings of this day. THURSDAY, JANUARY 15, 1998 Jerusalem We entered the walled city at the Dung Gate.  The weather was beautiful.  Our first interest today was the Temple Mount (Haram esh-Sharif).   Gilla is detailing the layout of the Temple Mount during the 2nd Temple period. The view of the Temple Mount from this location helps to understand the layout from that 2nd Temple period. The gray dome is the El Aksa Mosque.  This is an important Moslem worship center.  It has a long and varied history dating back to its completion by Omayyad Caliph El-Walid in 715 AD.  It was damaged by fire in 1969 but has been beautifully restored. Above, we see our group preparing to go into the El Aksa Mosque.   This requires one to leave shoes and equipment outside so someone must watch the stuff.   Note the stuff watchers, Steve, Gilla, Bennie Ruth and Don, with me taking the picture. Our group completes their visit into the Mosque and as always I line everybody up for a picture. The second important building on the Temple Mount is the Dome of the Rock. Clay is pictured here in front of the preparation fountain for those going into the Mosque.  They clean their feet at this place.  In the background is the Dome of the Rock. The building dates to 691 AD and is the first major sanctuary built by Islam.  It commemorates the night visit of the Prophet Mohammed.  This is believed to be the location of Mount Moriah, the location of the visit by Abraham and Isaac for the sacrifice directed by the Lord (Genesis 22). David bought this location and located the Ark of the Covenant on this site.  Solomon built the first temple here on the Temple Mount (1 Kings 5-6).   Jesus was often in this area.  He was presented in the Temple (Luke 2:22), disputed with the scribes (Luke 2:46), cast out the merchants (Mt. 21:12) and tempted by Satan on the Temple Mount. A better view of the Dung Gate that exits the Jewish Quarter next to the Temple Mount area. We exited the Temple Mount the same way we came in.  We were interested in visiting the Western Wall before we left the Jewish Quarter area. I am always a little amazed when I visit the Temple Mount.  The entrance area is nothing more than a makeshift ramp up to this sacred place.  I don’t know the reasoning for this but then am not required too. Clay, standing in front of the Western Wall.  The stones that form this western support for the Temple Mount area are huge. It is easy to see the majesty of this support wall.  One must review history to understand its importance and value. A stone up close with the prayers pushed in between any available space in the wall. This is an upward view from the bottom of the wall. A look back at the Western Wall as we depart for the Mount of Olive. We went around to the Garden of Gethsemane. “He went with them to a place called Gethsemane”  (Matthew 26:36).  The place of the olive press.  He prayed earnestly at this place (Lk 22).  They arrested Him here. He walked across the Kidron Valley through the Valley of  Decision   to His judgement and then to the cross. A look back at the Mount of Olives with the Church of All Nations in the lower left. We visited the overlook but it was overcast.  Now we traveled the five miles down to Bethlehem. This entrance into the Church of the Nativity was done this way on purpose to keep the horses ridden by the soldiers out of the Church. The interior of the Church of the Nativity is beautiful and ancient.   The traditions relating to this edifice date back to the 6th Century AD. This is the traditional location of the birth of Christ. The courtyard of St. Catherine’s Church is next to the Church of the Nativity. Adjoining St. Catherine’s Church is a cloister. We spent some time at the Church of the Nativity and then headed back toward Jerusalem. Our guide, Gilla, had a surprise for us.  We detoured around Har Homa to Migdal Eder, a field of shepherds. Note the shepherds led by Harold. Steve led us in a devotional. In the distance. Rough terrain.  Quiet beauty.  A shepherd field. Water means life in the desert.  An ancient well. We head back to Jerusalem.  We have more to do this day. THURSDAY, JANUARY 15, 1998 Jerusalem-More to Do Choices are a part of life.  Everyday we choose the kind of day we will have, the places we will go and the things we will do.   Many times our choices are influenced by how we feel or who we are with.   Today, our choice for ending the day was based on two key places that are related.   St. Peter in Gallicantu and the Upper Room on Mt. Zion.  St. Peter in Gallicantu is the place which Christians have venerated since the 6th Century as the location of Caiaphas’ house and where Peter denied Jesus (Mark 14:66-72).  Jesus would have been led up this road to Caiaphas’ house on the right.  The stones are from the Roman Period.  This is the stepped road down to Siloam and would have been used when traveling across the Kidron Valley up to Caiaphas’ house. The courtyard in the upper right of the picture is Caiaphas’ house at St. Peter in Gallicantu.  Our group was impressed with the stepped Roman Road. We walked down the stepped road toward Siloam. The view of the stepped Roman road from the bottom is impressive. St. Peter in Gallicantu is an impressive edifice.  I am impressed with the stained glass windows in the auditorium. We visited the Upper Room on Mt. Zion.  Mt. Zion is thought to be a more likely location for Caiaphas’ house because it is at the top of the hill.   Luxurious homes from the Herodian period have been found near this location. How much can we say about the Upper Room.   When we arrived, a charismatic group was completing a worship service.  They were very focused on their worship of Christ.  The level of emotion was high.  I was reminded that we often take precious experiences and images from our lives too lightly.  Lord help me to pay more attention to my brief time here on earth. The Upper Room, Cenacle, has an uncertain tradition.  It is possible that the tradition relates to the descent of the Holy Spirit on the Apostles in the Upper Room.  We weren’t as concerned with the archaeological surety as we were with the memories of the Lord’s concern for us.  This place always stirs me to think about the final hours of the life of Christ. I stopped Irvin on the way out to get a picture.  The Upper Room is up the stairs and the Tomb of David is around the corner below the upper room. We visited at Moshe and Dov’s shop on Tifferet Street in the center of the Jewish Quarter. Dov at the counter. Our group is buying stuff.  Shopping is important! We left the old city behind.  The day ended too soon. Friday would be a long day.  Thursday was just great. FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 1998 Down to the Dead Sea and Back Masada is located on the eastern slopes of the Judean Desert between En Gedi and Sdom.  It is in an isolated area of the Dead Sea, immediately east of its steep slopes.  The top of Masada is approximately 1,300 feet above the Dead Sea and is about 50 acres in area.  Herod chose Masada as a refuge from potential enemies.  Herod built beautiful palaces for himself and visitors to his wilderness refuge.  A Roman garrison occupied the fortress after Herod’s death.   The cable car currently stops 80 steps short of the top.  It is still a bit of a challenge when it is wet to navigate the steps to the top. If you choose not to use the cable car there is an ascent called the Snake Path that one can use to climb the slopes.  It takes about an hour if you are in good shape.  Take water whatever shape you are in.   Remember this is desert. When you get to the top, the large land area is a bit shocking.  We generally take the short route that gets to all the major structures on the top but you may want to take the long route which adds about an hour to the tour. Masada is important because of its importance to the nation of Israel.   It is a symbol of their commitment to stay.  They are here and here they will stay. The residence structure above is located in the center of the area. John is holding up a wall while he listens to our guide share about Masada. Western Palace mosaic. Steve and the group are approaching a small church built by monks during the Byzantine period. This is Clay posing in the Byzantine Period church. The look down toward the Roman ramp built during the siege of Masada by the Romans is a bit dramatic.  It is a long way down. A short break for questions and conversation. Good view of the group that walked down to the Northern Palace area. We bid Masada fond adieu.  We had to go down in separate cable cars so some of us took pictures of the first bunch going down. When we left Masada, we headed down to Ein Bokek for lunch.  It is located on the shore of the Dead Sea and is a growing Dead Sea tourist center.  Lunch was good. The journey up from the Dead Sea to Arad is spectacular.  The views to the east and the change in the mountain is dramatic.  The road is literally cut out of the mountain and is a hard climb for a vehicle. Tel Arad is located about 5 miles west of modern Arad.  It has a commanding view of the northern Negev and the Southern hills of Judea.  The king of Arad would not let Moses and the Children of Israel pass through here (Numbers 21:1, 33:40).  Joshua conquered the king of Arad (Joshua 12:14). There are actually two settlement locations at Tel Arad.  The lower settlement is from the Canaanite city (3150-2200 BC) and the upper settlement pictured below which was established about 1200 BC. The temple shown below is located in the northwestern corner of the citadel.  It is important for what it reveals about the temple worship in Jerusalem, and syncretism in the Hebrew society. The group is assembled on the upper level within the citadel and looking south into the Negev. I always find myself impressed with Tel Arad.  This is a place that has a long history and this area has been reborn in modern times.  I enjoy walking through the citadel and thinking of the events of the Old Testament that were played out here.  This was an important place in ancient Israel. The group gathered at the temple. We were heading back toward Jerusalem.  The short winter days were causing us to hustle across the southern Judean desert.  We waved at Beersheba on the horizon as we passed.  Hurrying, we turned north to Kiryat Gat and then journeyed southeast to Lakhish. Lakhish is a critical location for the Israelite Kingdom of Judah.   It is in the rolling hills of the Shephelah and is a strategic city for defense.   Everybody that warred with Israel traveled by here. The king of Lakhish had joined the 5 king coalition that marched against Gibeon and Joshua detoured southwest to defeat the city in two days (Joshua 10:1-32).   The city wasn’t fortified when Joshua attacked it in 1220 BC. Rehoboam built the first fortifications here in 928 BC.  Lakhish was the southern most of the line of forts protecting the western flank of the kingdom of Judah (2 Chr. 11:5-12).  During the reign of King Amaziah, Lakhish was the most important city in Judea next to Jerusalem. An earthquake occurred here about 760 BC (Amos 1:1; Zech. 14:5).   Sennacherib made Lakhish his base in the invasion of Judah in 701 BC (2 Kings 18:13-17). We really wanted to stop by Maresha and Bet Guvrin but couldn’t stop.   We were heading toward the battle of David and Goliath in the Elah Valley.   Highway 38 was a much traveled road for the armies and peoples of old. The day was long.  The walks and ride were tiring.  We picked up some rocks from the river bed and headed to Jerusalem.  We have now traveled from Dan to Beersheva.  Another good day. SATURDAY, JANUARY 17, 1998 Out and about in Jerusalem Today was a day of discovery.  We would walk the streets of Jerusalem without a particlar goal other than discovery and history.   A day for sampling the ambiance of the Old City. You can see the early morning light cascading across the New Gate on the northern side of the Old City of Jerusalem. We walked across the hills from the King’s Hotel to the Garden Tomb.   It was a memorable joy to listen to the sounds and look at the sights of Jerusalem.   So much going on, even on Shabat. There were a lot of people at the Garden Tomb, even at the early hour of 8:30 a.m. We toured the Garden Tomb area and had an excellent time with the Lord in a quiet place off the main path. A very beautiful place. Tom Brimmer waits to lead our group at the empty tomb of Jesus.  This is a place for remembrance and remorse.  A sad and joyous event. Quiet paths and well manicured gardens are the hallmark of the Garden Tomb. We left the Garden Tomb and headed for the Old City.  Our first stop would be at the Damascus Gate.  Our goal was to climb to the top of the walls and take the Ramparts Walk around to Jaffa Gate. Damascus Gate is where a lot of the Arab population of Jerusalem enter and exit. Our group is set to go on the Rampart walk. We visited the museum below the Damascus Gate area.  The group posed in the northern part of the Cardo that extended all the way through the Old City in Roman times. We can see the Shoulders of Hinnom and the King David Hotel at the top. The entrance to Jaffa Gate is quiet.  Not a lot of traffic this time of day. The Suk. Steve and Francis enjoying an excellent lunch. Jeff, Irvin, John and Paul across the aisle. Mark, Yvonne, Scott and Randy completing their lunch. Omar Bakri is the owner of Omar’s Souvenirs  in East Jerusalem.  He is the premier olive wood carver in Jerusalem. Omar’s shop is on this street in East Jerusalem. Tom Brimmer at Omar’s. When we left Omar’s, we traveled back into the Old City through the Herod Gate, just a short distance east of Damascus Gate. Traveling towards the Temple Mount, we pass Abu Shukri’s.  Local lore says that when Jordan controlled this part of Jerusalem, the King of Jordan had hummus and falafel sent regularly at lunch from Abu Shukri’s. Aquaduct at Caesarea

ISRAEL MARCH 1997

What Happens When You Change Cultures?

The journey from New Orleans to Tel Aviv spreads out over a 32 hour period, which includes the loss of 8 hours in time zone changes and an actual travel and wait time of approximately 24 hours. It is a large investment of time and energy and should include significant diversionary tactics as reading, sleeping, reading and sleeping. Thrown in for good measure are a few short periods of eating. I would also recommend that you carry a few snacks and a small bottle of water in your hand luggage.

Stepping off of the plane in Tel Aviv for the first time is an open assault on your senses. The noises, the process, the emotions of being in the Holy Land and your tired body all rush together to overwhelm the soul. Generally, the arrival is an emotion that I just try to get through and think about later when I get back home.

We immediately gather up our stuff, get to our rental vehicle and dash downtown to Joppa before the sun goes down. A couple of trips we left Joppa to get back to and never did. Too much to see and do in such a short time. Experiencing Joppa, seeing the general location of Simon the Tanner’s house and hearing the waves crash on the seawall where Jonah fled from the Lord is an appropriate beginning to a life changing trip. You will never again read Acts without a renewed experience of sight, sound and smell. Joppa!

JONAH
Jonah found a place to go.. a refuge big, a journey slow
He chose it on his own. “I’ll show you!”
Determined, he determined his way.
Breathing, eating, sleeping, he went. Who will know?
A hand unseen corralled him. Hurting others with him.
Sin is such a desperate act. Careless pain it sheds.
Defined and destined, he gave in, punishment in the end.
Crying out for safety. Save me.
That unseen hand, again delayed, stayed the end.
Rebelliously, Jonah changed his way. You win.

Clay April 1997

Netanya calls and we journey up the coast from Joppa, thru Tel Aviv (traffic and fatigue make this a thrilling ride) about an hour to the Maxim Hotel in Netanya. It is very different from the Holiday Inn. The elevator ride to the 4th floor is a kick. Two with luggage in the elevator is an overload! Dinner starts at 7 p.m. and we arrived at 8:30 p.m. so we quickly get back down to our meal. It is a real experience to watch three travelers on their first trip to Israel have their first meal in Israel. The hummus was good. The eggplant was okay. The meal was fun.

We were told as we got off the plane at the airport the correct local time. We didn’t question it, and obediently set all of our watches. When we picked up the rental car we noted the clock had the wrong time and I dutifully changed it. The waiter told us at dinner that breakfast wouldn’t be ready until 7:30 a.m. We all agreed that at 7:15 a.m. we would be ready and come down together to try and hurry them at breakfast. We did and to our horror they had just shown up at 7:15 a.m. We were nice but persistent and finally about 8 a.m. we finished breakfast and began our first full days journey. We dashed everywhere all day and arrived at Beit Hava at 7 p.m. that night worn out. After we checked in we went around to the restaurant to eat supper. It wasn’t ready. Odd. We also noticed that the clock on the wall had the wrong time. We went back to the front desk and asked the time. We discovered that we had been an hour fast in Israel for two days. The airline had given us the wrong time! I was very glad that I had given the kitchen staff at the Maxim Hotel a decent tip.

Netanya And A Day Of Flowers

The first trip I made from Netanya to Caesarea was a mess. First, Netanya is designed so that it isn’t easy to get from the beach back to Highway 2. Second, it’s hard and confusing to get from the beach back to Highway 2. Oh well, the location and cost are pluses and the investment of time and energy is minimal and this time, we paid careful attention and made it out in record time without any bumps or bruises. McDonalds doesn’t open until 11 a.m. so we couldn’t stop for good coffee on the way out.

Rain is a blessing in a country like Israel. They want all they can get. They got all we wanted. In between the waves of rain, we closed in on Caesarea. Green fields covered with red and yellow poppies were in sharp contrast to the brown fields that I had known on previous trips. Wild flowers were everywhere. They were deeply colored wild flowers. Deep red and deep yellow and deep all the other colors that wild flowers grow. Beautiful! Where was the brown?

The Wildflower
I am more than who you think.. wiser, richer, handsomer.
Crushed beneath a drought of luck.. but for God’s grace.
I have dreams and hopes and words unsaid.. enriching.
Forced to live this place I’m in.. watching eagles soar.
I am more than who you think I am.. thinking all the while.
Ah to be a man of dreams.. who I really am.
I would be the best I’ve been.. you’d see who I am.
Wanting, yearning ere.. to be another.
I look afar to coming days.. time is passing by.

I find that trust is like Israel’s dirt.
All brown and ordinary like.
I feel the rain and see the gain.. Wow.
A touch of water’s life and springs.
I suddenly see the life you give.. important.
In your gift you gave me life.
I am like a wild flower grown.
A moment is all I have.
I am more than who I think I am.

Clay April 1997

Caesarea In The Rain

Driving into Caesarea never seems to match with my sense of history. I can hear the importance of a place that nearly 2,000 years ago developed buildings whose foundations are still standing. Where concrete was poured under water. Buildings constructed that rival our best built structures today. Now it stands, unimportant, unused, and unsung.

Crusader Entrance

Sandy beaches and looming structures greet us. The rain is pelting us in waves, with minimal sun between the looming clouds. I shot some video and a few pictures and we walked the entire Roman City and up the road the Crusader City. We noted the excavations they were feverishly working on along the seashore and Dennis informed us that it would include administrative buildings, Herod’s home that jutted out into the sea, another smaller theater and a racecourse. Interesting the way that Herod laid out the city.

What a builder. Valued by Rome. Hated by his family, neighbors and Jews. An evil man.

The rain pushed us onward and we soon completed the site visit and returned to the trip into the history of Israel. We drove across to highway 4 and immediately, at my suggestion stopped to get coffee at McDonald’s.

Security Guard at the Mall in Caesarea

It was closed but the small, new shopping mall just outside of Caesarea was open so we visited the stores and looked around. We got stuff at the Post Office, grocery store and a hot pot at an appliance store. In addition I had an interesting conversation with the 72 year old security guard who had come to Israel late in life from Paris. He enjoyed working, didn’t speak any English, French and Hebrew only, and we had a good conversation. It seems people are indeed people everywhere.

The drive up highway 4 to Muhraqa (where Elijah slew the prophets of Baal) was exciting and eventful. We were talking excitedly, Charlie expounding on this and that with Dennis uhing and ahing. Out of nowhere a policeman ahead motioned for us to pull over. When we spoke English the policeman indicated for us to move along. What had we done? Finally we realized that it was raining and we didn’t have our lights on. Dennis turned them on.

Through the Carmel forest and up the bedraggled road we drove to the Monastery. Once there, we climbed the steps to the top of the building to lookout over the Jezreel Valley where the final battle will be waged. It is stunning, important, interesting and at the same time simply a beautiful valley. What makes the difference? God’s interest and movement here makes the difference.

God Makes The Difference
A boy of three, scared of night, faces dragons and cries.
A mother worn without a life, imprisoned by her dreams.
Along the way an evil one eats seven little strays.
And kills the heart of the dreamer, imprisoned by his hate.

How can good proceed from hell’s deep hole? Seven born to die.
The truth be told, God knows. Heaven’s child has woes.
Life is not an easy guess. A road that’s full of holes.
God’s the one, the battles won. The difference He bestows.

Clay April 1997

The Difference a Day in Acre Makes

Acco Harbor – Charlie, Dennis, Clay, Harold, Francis

I didn’t know that it was so easy to find the eastern entrance to the old city of Acre. On previous occasions we had gone in by the north side of the harbor and on a couple of times in the past wandered thru the city and finally found the front entrance. Today we went straight into the old city on the eastern side without a hitch and parked at the old guy’s place on the left after you pass through the Crusader walls. He watches the car for us and protects our clothes.

Acre was important as a Crusader fortress for two hundred years and for about twenty-five centuries was the most important port in the eastern Mediterranean. Steamships found Haifa more suitable for them and Acre receded into history, no longer an important port.

It is a small city with all of the charm and color of a typical Middle Eastern city. Its square towers, tin domed mosques and beautiful old walls give it an air of intrigue without the squalor or fierceness that we often associate with Middle Eastern cities. I can walk all of Acre without climbing steps at every turn.

I love the market. It is the center of activity and offers everything imaginable, all of it out in the open. I suspect that the market of today is very similar to the markets the Romans established during their long rule in this area. Each market stall specializes in specific things, such as vegetables, spices, beef, lamb, fish, sweets, bread and so on. Walking and listening to the sounds and smelling the melange of aromas is a real experience.

We walked all over Acre. Climbed the seawall. Looked at the ocean. Went through the Crusader city. When we left, it was still Acre but we were different.

The Difference In Me
I like to read the Bible. Morning, noon and night.
To search the sheets of wisdom filled with delight.
Bringing heavy burdens, cares and woes.
To feel the comfort flow from pages the Spirit shows.
Carrying to the One who knows my needs and lows.
To get a course correction.
Lending a helping hand, a whispered word of love.
When I get up off my knees, He’s still God.
I am different.

Clay April 1997

Dan

Abram and 318 men chased Ched-or-laomar and his allies all the way to Dan before he caught up with them. His journey to Dan was about 130 miles from Hebron and they walked all the way. We were at Dan and it was late in the afternoon. I had only walked 5 miles that day and I was worn out.

Dan was not a new place to me. “Been there, done that” and it was raining hard. I had coffee. Dennis and the others trudged through the rain and mud for two hours.

I had a quiet nap in the car after the excellent cup of espresso. Stan had pneumonia when he got back home.

Choices
I choose to lose or win or stay.
By everything I do and say.
The way to win is not the thing.
All count with coins and others say.
Winning comes from out the soul.
It’s based on things we are.
There is one who grows each choice.
I reap the growth in life’s long road.

Clay April 1997

Caesarea Philippi

Caesarea Philippi is located on the Northern Border of Israel in the Golan Heights. Israel has occupied this area since 1967. It is near Mount Hermon and is a part of the Banias watershed.

In ancient times, it was a place of pagan shrines and temples. Jesus came here with his disciples ostensibly for rest but actually for the “rock” discourse.

We came to Caesarea. It was a place of quiet and coolness. A ‘get-away” place for Israeli families. An important place for Israel because it is their primary watershed area. An important place for us because of the journey that Jesus took nearly 2,000 years ago. Jesus stressed the solidity of His and the Father’s relationship, they are one and in Him we are strong.

THE ROCK
Strength is neither seen nor heard.
Coming from a source, not words.
The issue facing each of us.
What’s the source for me?
Reaching out to touch our hearts.
Cleansing soul and mind.
Jesus’ word provides for me.
Directions to the source.
We can have the strength we need.
We can fight the dangers.
Jesus is the Way to peace.
He is the Rock we seek.

Clay July 1997

Mount of the Beatitudes

The parking lot at the Mount of the Beatitudes is small and crowded. Huge busses come and go all day making lots of dust, noise and congestion on the tiny one lane entrance road. The concession operator acts as the yard master, directing traffic and requiring someone to stay with the vehicle so that it can be moved when needed. Dennis stayed with the van while we went in to visit the site.

The Valley of the Discourse lies immediately to the west of the Holy Site and extends all the way down, maybe 300 yards, to the Sea of Galilee. It is a natural auditorium and was well able to provide the acoustics for Jesus to speak to those thousands that were present for the Discourse.

Mussolini was the benefactor of the building on the Mount of the Beatitudes. This simply underscores the reality of sin in the world. It also shows that those best able to pay are not always the best. I like the building and have always enjoyed praying and communing at this site. Beautiful trees, quiet shade, and peaceful prayer areas enhance this site as a place of quiet peacefulness. All the while, in the background one hears beeping horns, noisy drivers and tourists, clicking cameras and whirring video cameras. Lord, how can we get holy and live life?

Holy
Babies cry at birth, at sprains, at lack of food and at other things.
How to get Holy?
I pray for peace, for joy, for health and that God
would change others.
How to get Holy?
Some they seek a quiet place, but they are there.
How to get Holy?
Sunday comes and life goes on.
How to get Holy?
Evil reigns and answers go?
How to get Holy?
Help me Lord, I’ve bent my knee.
In you I am Holy!

Clay April 1997

Chorazin

We stayed two nights at Dortel Kinnereth on the Northern end of the Sea of Galilee, approximately two miles east of Capernaum. Each double was actually a small cottage in a pastoral setting. Dortel is a quiet and peaceful place. The rain continued the two days while we were in the Galilee but so did we.

That first morning we went near the tel of Bethsaida, now deserted for two thousand years, and then up the hillside to the ruins of Chorazin. Chorazin has been superbly excavated. It is a good model of a small Galilean village during the time of Jesus.

“Woe to you Chorazin, and woe to you Bethsaida!”

Repent
Repent ye whited sepulchers and broods of vipers.
Selfish lives, disdaining all.
Repent!
Of idols made with hands.
Repent!
Of savings, separate, sent to banks of rust.
Repent!
Of thousands sent to hell.
Repent!
Of hearts as cold as wells.
Repent!
Of eyes that shame the soul.
Repent!
Repent!
Repent!

Clay April 1997

Jordan Valley and the Dead Sea

We left the Galilee early Tuesday morning and set our sights on finishing the day at Metsukei Dragot a wilderness camp high above the Dead Sea in the Judean Wilderness.

Metsukei Dragot – Jordan Valley

I was anticipating the end of the day when we would roll into the wilderness camp. It was an exciting goal.

Bet Shean was a two hour visit. We surveyed the Roman ruins and then clambered up 130 steps to the top of the ancient Philistine Tel where the bodies of Saul and Jonathan were hung.

Bet Shean – Jordan Valley

Dennis had been excavating on the Old Testament Tel for several seasons now and did a good job of detailing the work and the ancient civilization. I continue to be impressed with Dennis’ ability to master the meticulous detail at an ancient site. He is a real time detective.

The trip from Bet Shean to Jericho is unusual in several ways.

Bet Shean – Jericho

First, it is ruggedly beautiful all the time, and second, it is an unusually long journey where you don’t come across a single site of archeological or historical interest, as if the land wanted the traveler to appreciate the beauty of the landscape at his leisure.

We passed the Israeli checkpoint for the trip down the Jordan Valley and the sign said, “No Tourists.” Fortunately, Dennis and I must have looked like locals because they waved us through. The PLO checkpoint in Jericho was different, we were not invited in, so we took the bypass and went on to Qumran.

The mountains to the north of Wadi Qumran yielded up some 800 manuscripts during the period of 1947-1956. The site is a visitor friendly site and before we walked it we had lunch at the small visitor center. Maybe Qumran was an Essene community but I suspect that it was much more than we fully comprehend today. History has a way of hiding truth.

Finally we arrived at Metsukei Dragot. The wilderness camp is perched on the edge of the Judean Wilderness about 1,500 feet above the Dead Sea.

Judean Wilderness

The view is breathtaking. The ride up the mountainside is breathtaking. Metsukei Dragot was developed by Mitzpeh Shalem. They are a kibbutz located on the shore of the Dead Sea. They have pioneered the cultivation of winter produce and a host of cosmetics manufactured from the natural resources of the Dead Sea.

We unloaded our stuff and headed down the mountain to try and get in a Masada visit before they closed. About halfway down the mountain, Harold and Francis discovered that the left rear window of the van was falling out! We went back up the mountain. Dennis pulled the duct tape out of his luggage and we taped the window back in place. The window was definitely fixed because it held for 800 more kilometers.

Judean Wilderness

It was too late for Masada so we went into the Judean Wilderness. It was rugged, beautiful, and awesome. It was different than I had thought it would be and yet it was as inspirational as I expected it to be. David fled through this area. Anticipation had certainly not been disappointed.

Anticipating the Presence of God
Hurting then amidst the pain.
Anticipating evil’s dirge.
Reeling from the fever’s scourge,
Of sin and hate so carelessly dug.
Appealing to an unseen king,
Pleading for a way it seems.
Counting costs of wishes sent,
But soon denied by me, hell bent.
Then in His reign, He reached my pain.
A heart and soul exchanged.
And stand now I amidst my sin.
By Christ from God redeemed.
For in that day that soon will come,
The One I love will say here’s God.

Clay April 1997

Arad

The Negev Desert is located in the southern part of Israel and makes up more than half of the land area of Israel.

Ancient Tel Arad

Arad is at the northern edge of the Negev. It is close to the Dead Sea, Judean Wilderness, and the desert. It is a modern city of about 20,000 people and is about 5 miles east of the ancient Tel Arad.

Tom Brimmer at Tel Arad

Tel Arad is the richest Biblical archeological site in the Negev. Twelve towns are built on top of each other. The earliest occupants of this site were in the 3rd millennium BC. Judah conquered Canaanite city in the 10th century BC and it became an important city of Judah. Contrary to the command of Deuteronomy 12:4-5 “..build a sanctuary for Him at a place He himself will select..”, the Israelites at Tel Arad built a sanctuary, complete with sacrificial activities, Holy of Holies, etc. It was an abomination to the Lord but was an operative high place until the
sanctuary was destroyed by Josiah ( 2nd Kings 23) after the Babylonian exile.

Tel Arad

Worship Where?
We are called to worship God,
Deep within our hearts.
In such a way that fertile crops,
Feed the poor each day.
That hands and feet obey His call,
Each pathway leads from Him.
False hearts fight, and evil grows,
A call for thee resounds.
On bended knee, repentance plea,
Needy souls all.
The proclamation of His life,
Me, you need Me.

Clay April 1997

Jerusalem 1997

It has been an intense desire of mine to do something important with my life. At the back of my mind, work has been the avenue that seemed to hold the greatest potential for importance and remembrance. Then, I came to Jerusalem. That city that God loves.

Barren, rocky, hilly Jerusalem that Jesus wept over. The place where the prophets were murdered.

We entered the City from the west and drove for an hour before we finally reached the “Old City of Jerusalem.”

City of Jerusalem

Comfortably seated atop two hills and bordered by the Kidron and Hinnom Valleys, Jerusalem sparkles. The walls we see were built by Suleiman in the 16^th Century and therefore encompass 5,000 years of history.

CITY
A place of beauty and protection, comforting one’s soul.
Sheltered by the hand of God, centuries old.
Strong as steel should be, ever reaching out to thee.
Jerusalem.
Prophets came and told, the Holy Word of God.
Standing in the Temple’s shadow.
Never followed, never heard, death was their shepherd.
Jerusalem.
And then a pagan antichrist, ruling til today.
Giving out his holy word.
Followed, heard, shepherding death.
Jerusalem.
Would be nice to say it’s not a place of lasting peace.
Peace from God is in His hand, not an edict.
God declares this place His HOME.
Jerusalem.

Arriving at Beit Shmuel on Shamma Street we settled into our quarters. We stared across the Hinnom Valley and gawked at Jaffa Gate and the City Walls.

Jaffa Gate & City Walls

Majestic, strong and beautiful City Walls. Tired and traveled, we made our way across the Hinnom and entered the Old City of Jerusalem at Jaffa Gate.

Jaffa Gate Entrance

Supper was on our mind and we walked to the Armenian Tavern to deal with this concern.

Armenian Tavern

The meal was hearty, inexpensive and good. A meal filled with atmosphere, good fellowship, and memorable images of a Middle Eastern meal.

The food in Jerusalem is often good and sometimes very good. The prices are moderate to inexpensive on a world scale. We carefully evaluated the places we wanted to eat and enjoyed Middle Eastern food, Chinese food and on occasion Western food. We ate very well. An especially fun experience was lunch in Omar Bakri’s Olive Wood store. We had hummus brought in from a neighboring restaurant and had a great meal.

Mount Zion
Stan, Tom and Robert, praying…

The eight gates that enter the Old City are all interesting and important to the history of Jerusalem. The Zion Gate with its ninety degree turn is unusual and important because of its location and relationship with Mount Zion. The Lion Gate with its two Mamaluke Lions is at the beginning of the Via Dolorosa. The Damascus Gate facing East Jerusalem is the largest of the eight gates and was the location of Sultan Suleiman’s Palace. We walked through all of the gates and discussed their particular special relationship with Jerusalem and its walls.

REALLY?
Concerns that anger me, that teach and preach and badger me,
Find resolution in God’s place.
He is here. Inside my soul, He goes with me and gives me life.
I know that place is where I am but here is His place.
Reaching out to touch the stone. I connect with His place.
Burdened for a world of woe. Hurting hearts that show.
Here I am with Him. He knows and I know Him.
Job knew His presence, I too, He is.
And in this place of centuries born. With changing shapes and forms.
The Rock resides without a change.
As people come and nations die, He lives and resides.
His place where all can come.

Walking all the streets wearied the body and filled the soul. Sights and sounds so foreign to us were all around.

Armenian Patriarchite St.

The music of the marketplace; chatter, Eastern songs, Western songs, Muslim prayers, people talking, Christians praying, all blending together with the smells of Eastern foods, was overpowering. Hard to take in. A mind grabbing memory that sharpens with time.

Temple Mount with a view of the Dome of the Rock

Jerusalem grows in my heart. I spend time memorizing the map and saying the street names. As I walk, I recount the remembered ones who have been here before. The journey along the Via Dolorosa reminded me of how much Christ has done for me. The Western Wall overpowers the emotions. Jerusalem.

We drove through the Armenian Quarter one night. It was interesting, and we encountered very little traffic on the narrow streets. Skirting the edge of the Jewish Quarter, we exited the Old City at the Dung Gate. The next morning we were back in the Jewish Quarter visiting the Western Wall. We couldn’t get on the Temple Mount.

Our time in Jerusalem ended too soon. Our thoughts turned towards home and we packed our bags with mixed emotions. One day, we will arrive in the New Jerusalem.

ISRAEL NOV 1996

The Trip

The following is an account of five travelers who embarked upon a journey to view time as it was and how it has become. The land…The Holy Land. As did Abraham who traversed The Fertile Crescent in search of the Promised Land, the Mameluke’s, the Persians, the Muslims and many others, and now five Americans from New Orleans.

I now must step into first person because I will be your narrator. Hopefully you will have a glimpse into our journey and when you make your own journey, our steps, our stories and our words will guide you.

My travel companions:

Clay Corvin – He was our guide, driver, still photographer, resident archaeologist (in the absence of Dennis Cole), schedule maker and keeper (Masada in one hour-yea, right), and of course leader.

Jimmy Dukes – He was our New Testament scholar who related what we saw to Biblical accounts, chief humbler (don’t need any whiny babies on this trip), devotional leader and all around funny guy.

Robert Cleland – Robert making his second trip told us what we were seeing when Clay “better get your hearing checked before your December paycheck” Corvin mumbled at certain historical sites. He was our insightful number two guide, personality balance between some of the men, and chief scripture finder.

Chris Friedman – By birth, a good looking German man, he was also the recipient of most of our jokes, yet provided much of the enthusiasm for the trip. He was our gift shop finder, our coffee and food taster and Guide (CJ) wannabe. He was the official video photographer and audio recorder.

Steve Achord – That’s me, the official record keeper, note taker and journalist. I was also the skinniest of the five which meant when we traveled I rode in the back seat in the middle on the hump. I survived to tell about it and that is what I now must do.

The account is divided into smaller stories or articles that related to our journey. I hope to give insightful tips ranging from food in Israel, making the plane trip across the ocean more enjoyable to making it through Israeli Customs. Enjoy the ride.

The Long and Winding Road

Daddy, Are we There Yet?
I read once that the national sport of Israel is driving brashness because drivers tend to be impatient and aggressive. Sitting on the curve at Ben-Gurion Airport waiting for Clay to return with a rental car, I realized this was an accurate statement. Honking horns, rapid starts, sudden stops, speeding buses and five men in a Plymouth Neon would make for an interesting way to experience Israel.

Israel is a small country with many automobiles, all traveling quickly to their destinations. The American concept of interstate highways is quickly missed because main highways are rarely wide and straight. Many of the secondary roads are narrow with many curves, none of which create passing taboos for Israeli drivers. Despite narrow driving conditions, most roads tended to be maintained fairly well, with construction projects underway in several places. The city of New Orleans has more potholes than all the major U.S. cities combined, so it’s not too bad. The driving/riding experience in Tel Aviv and Jerusalem can be compared to most cities in the world; lots of traffic, lots of people and few parking places. However, out on the open highway with the window rolled down there were many enjoyable sites and sounds to tempt the senses. Here are a few brief notes I took while riding in the back seat of our Neon that illustrates some of our experiences on the winding roads of Israel.

“At the end of our first day it is difficult to assess the day except we traveled a great deal and saw a lot. It was a long day, yet wonderful. Driving from place to place we pulled into our memories many wonderful sights, smells and sounds that basically said, ‘welcome to Israel, the land of Abraham, David and of course Jesus.’ There was so much to gather, but we didn’t mind seeing so much of the land we had read about all of our lives.”

“The excitement built as we descended from the north toward the Sea of Galilee. The sun was setting to the west casting an orange glow on the glassy water. The cool wind felt great against my face as a million thoughts about Jesus’ ministry in this very area rushed through my mind.”

“The old ways and the modern ways meet head-on as we pass large farms with miles and miles of irrigated farmland and then suddenly you see an old man walking behind a mule and plow tending to his fields.”

“At every bus stop dozens of young people could be seen hitchhiking. Suddenly, I was in a 70’s time warp in the states when hitchhiking idea was still popular and safe.”

“Drove through another checkpoint as we headed into the West Bank. We all showed our passports and for a brief moment thought we may have to sacrifice Chris to the PLO to travel any further.”

“Leaving Jacob’s well we had to wait a minute for the man riding bareback on a donkey to pass our van.”

“Just as it was in Biblical times, terrace farming along the mountain is still widely practiced.”

“I didn’t think I would be excited to see those golden arches in the distance, an American icon we take for granted, but it was great to take a break today.”

Overall, riding in a car was the best way to see the country. We complained about tight quarters and limited leg room, but none of us would have traded the riding experience. I take that back, Jimmy would beg to differ as he held on to the dash, barely breathing, as Clay made one of those A.J. Foyt, passing in a mountain curve experiences on the way to Jerusalem. You can breath now Jimmy.

New Orleans to Tel Aviv and back home again

What to expect on the plane
New Orleans International Airport is in the midst of major renovations. For frequent travelers, it seems this has always been the case. Despite the construction, our departure from New Orleans went smoothly. At 12:11 p.m. on Wednesday afternoon, our plane was racing down the runway under cloudy skies and hot and humid conditions.

Our Delta Airlines flight to Atlanta was full, but with a great in-flight magazine, eight great audio channels and headphones on the plane, and of course peanuts and soft drinks, the hour flight passed quickly. The flight magazine Sky provided interesting articles and of course a listing of what to listen to while in the air. Articles about Joan Allen, (she played Pat Nixon in the screen version of Nixon) and Pat Boone and his latest project “Heavy and Metal” made great company. My favorite article in the November edition was “The Great Trunk Road.” This informative article detailed travel by truck along the Route 66 of India and Pakistan.

We landed in Atlanta at 1:17 p.m. and ventured to the waiting area before boarding our Swiss Air flight to Zurich, Switzerland. Boarding the 747 took place at 4:05 p.m., but actual take off did not occur until 5:12 p.m. for the 4,684 mile, eight-hour flight.

The flight plan takes the plane up the Eastern Seaboard over Greensboro, North Carolina over New York City and Nova Scotia and then over the North Atlantic toward Europe. About an hour into the flight the aroma of airline food wafted through the cabin as flight attendants prepared to serve dinner. Traveling at 620 mph and 32,000 feet above sea level, our food was actually pretty tasty.

Dinner included: mineral water, two bistro rolls, (wheat and white), salad, similar to cole slaw, but with sliced sausage and walnuts, a stuffed chicken breast with a mushroom gravy. On the side were green peas, wild rice, butter and a cheese spread for the rolls. A double chocolate cake and hot coffee were served for dessert.

An interesting part of the Swiss Air flight was the video map that showed us continuous updates of our location. In several languages our coordinates were given visually. A larger map showing a white plane and its path was shown, as well as a more detailed map of the cities we were flying over. Next, our altitude, ground speed, outside air temperature, distance to destination, time to destination, local time at present position and the estimated arrival time were shown.

Two hours later the lights were dimmed and the Michael Keaton film, Multiplicity was shown. I had trouble staying focused on the somewhat confusing film so I tried to sleep. At 11:30 p.m., the lights were turned back on and hot, steamed towels were given out. A hot towel on your face can make you forget about any problems you may have encountered on the flight. I felt my pores tighten up and suddenly I was wide awake and ready to enjoy the cool orange juice being served.

At almost midnight New Orleans time and 5:30 a.m. local time, breakfast rolled down the aisle. This meal included: a roll served at room temperature, a mini croissant served hot, Danon strawberry yogurt, a small bunch of red grapes, a banana nut muffin, a wedge of Swiss cheese, butter, jelly, juice and coffee.

Shortly after eating breakfast we were over land again and small patches of lights could be seen below. From the window, the sun was barely visible. A small glow of orange sunlight peaked above the horizon. Just below the orange glow, a thin yellow line followed by another thin line of green streaked across the morning sky. These streaks of colors opened into a deep blue abyss. A very beautiful sight indeed. Good morning, Lord. Already you are putting the day’s new colors on your giant canvas for me to enjoy.

At 1 a.m. New Orleans time, we arrived in Zurich. Despite a very cloudy morning, the city and country side was beautiful. Following a brief layover and tight security in Zurich, we boarded our next flight which took us to Israel.

The flight above the Alps is incredible. Snow-capped mountains standing majestically under now clear, deep blue skies reminded me of God’s awesome creativity. Down below we saw a large lake nestled between the mountains. Watching and admiring the beautiful scenery made me hungry. Good thing lunch was on its way.

Lunch included: pea salad with a hard boiled egg wedge, chicken kiev with steamed broccoli and buttered noodles, pudding and Evian water. A very good lunch.

Following lunch, I napped for awhile and read the flight magazine. Near the end of the flight the hot towels were brought to us. I left mine on my face for about 10 seconds until the towel was cold. So refreshing. I was ready to hit Israel running now.

Tips to help you endure and even enjoy the plane trip:

1. Put everything you carry on the plane into the overhead bin. Leave as much room for your feet as possible so you can stretch out.

2. Bring your own reading material. I would suggest a good paperback that will last the entire flight if needed.

3. Put your basic toiletries in the top portion of your carry-on luggage. Nothing feels better than brushing your teeth and washing your face with a soft wash cloth you have brought from home after being on the go all day. Those brown towels you find in the lavatory are rough on your face.

4. Buy small locks for every piece of luggage and put the keys on a small chain around your neck. This gives you piece of mind while you travel.

5. Don’t bother with your personal CD or cassette player. There is a wide selection of music on the plane and headphones were provided free of charge.

6. Pack a few snacks in your carry-on luggage in case your eating schedule differs from the airline’s.

7. Drink lots of fluids, bottled water and juice, rather than carbonated beverages to help prevent jet lag.

8. Try and sleep. If you can sleep sitting up, get an aisle seat. If you need to lean against something to sleep, ask for a window seat.

9. Long sleeves if you are cold-natured.

10. Wear warm up pants for maximum comfort.

11. Wear heavy socks so you can kick off your shoes for the entire flight. I walked around in my socks and it felt great.

12. If you have the tendency to go to the restroom regularly or need to stretch often, get an aisle seat.

13. Buy one of those inflatable neck pillows to help you sleep better.

14. Try and watch the movie to help pass the time away.

15. Don’t pass up the meals and beverages because they are already paid for and it makes you feel like you are getting your money’s worth.

16. Bring along Tylenol PM if you need help falling asleep.

Going through Customs

We don’t need any comedians now
Our first encounter with customs agents was in Zurich, Switzerland following an overnight transatlantic flight. Prior to boarding our plane from Zurich to Tel Aviv, agents asked us several questions about our trip into the country and our reasons for going to Israel. Sophisticated x-ray equipment checked our carry-on baggage and agents rechecked each piece. Don’t be surprised if you are asked to step to another room for additional questions or a pat-down by one of the officials. These concerns are merely a safety precaution and these Swiss officials don’t take a neutral stand on safety.

Prior to arrival in Tel Aviv, flight attendants from Swiss Air gave us a form to complete for our entrance into the country. In the airport, custom officials take a copy of this visa for themselves and return a copy to you. Don’t lose this copy. Expect the same seriousness, if not more, from Israeli agents as you receive from the Swiss. Our entrance into the country was relatively quick with limited hassle.

Leaving the country is more time consuming and very thorough. Arrive early, be patient, and be cooperative with customs officials. For a 5 a.m. flight out of Israel, we arrived at Ben Gurion Airport at 1:45 a.m. to begin the process. At 2 a.m., we were allowed to place our bags in line for our first inspection. It’s important to note many of the men and women who work in customs are young and look like they should be hanging out at a coffee shop studying for college exams. Don’t let their age fool you. They take their job seriously, perform it seriously and know what they are looking for as they go through the tedious process of allowing travelers to enter and exit their country.

Step 1. Your bags are placed on a table where an agent takes yourairline ticket, passport and asks the initial questions about your recent visit to Israel. This person checks to see if the name on the luggage matches the tickets and passport. This agent reports his or her findings to the supervisor in the area.

Step 2. After passing this step, your luggage is taken to a large x-ray machine and your bags are scanned. If anything looks suspicious, you are asked to open your baggage for a visual inspection.

Step 3. If all is found to be okay, your bags are tagged with yellow stickers along with your ticket. Keep your entry certificate with you through these steps.

Step 4. Proceed to another line where your flight arrangements will be made and your boarding pass is issued.

Step 5. You are directed to another line which leads to an upstairs waiting area. Once again, your tickets, passports and carry-on baggage are checked to see if they belong to you.

Step 6. Congratulations, you have made it through customs and now you are free to shop until you drop in the duty free shopping area. This large wing houses a mini mall with a variety of shops and eating establishments. Although it is 3:00 in the morning, every shop is open and fully staffed to meet your needs.

Step 7. Prepare to Board. Your boarding pass is taken by another agent and you are directed downstairs to a waiting bus that will take you to the tarmac where you are allowed to board the airplane. Entering and exiting airplanes at Ben Gurion Airport is away from the main terminal and transportation to and from the planes requires a short ride by bus.

Step 8. Disembark from the bus and head up the outside ramp to the plane. There are lots of security officers watching the loading of the plane.

Step 9. Board the plane and find your seat.

Be polite when answering the many questions asked by customs officials. Do not leave your bags unattended. This is a security concern that will promptly bring officials to the unattended bags. Here are some of the questions you may be asked while going through customs:
– Why did you travel to Israel?
– Was your trip for business or personal reasons?
– Who planned your trip?
– Who do these bags belong to?
– Did you pack your luggage yourself?
– Do you have any friends or family in Israel?
– Who brought you to the airport and what is their relationship to you?
– Where did you go in Israel?

Additional Questions:
– Where did you spend the night while you were in Israel?
– What sites did you see in Jerusalem?
– What sections of Jerusalem did you visit?
– Where did you sleep in Jerusalem?
– What do you do for a living in the United States?
– Do you have a business card that identifies your place of employment?

Famous Quotes

This is what they said in front your face
The following quotes were expressed by American tourists during a recent trip to Israel. The names were omitted to protect the guilty and remember no one is innocent. In order for some quotes to be humorous, you may have had to been there.

“I’m such a cool guy.”
“That’s a treasure.”
“Robert, how about some apricot jam.”
“Oh yes, that’s Roman glass.”
“You’re a good looking German man.”
“No, that is strictly forbidden.”
“Your papers are not in order.”
“Do not walk away from me when I am talking to you,” he said. “I didn’t ask you to talk to me.”
“Everyday of my life I add another name to the long list of people who have ticked me off.”
“Let me show my shop, everything is half-price.”
“Where’s the WC?”
“Five filter coffees please.”
“Excuse me sir, do you need a private guide.”
“Yea. That’s a good buy on film, too bad it’s 32 mm.”
“We’ve decided to take turns being Clay for the day,” he said. “No way,
Chris, you’re standing alone on this one.”
“You’re a good looking German man.”
“You can use leaves, moss or a corncob.”
“I’m sorry what did you say?”
“Get your ears checked before you get your December paycheck.”
“Only 8 1/2 more days.”
“What are you going to do tomorrow?” “I don’t know, I’m waiting for Clay to tell me.”
“Where’s Chrissy?” “Who knows?”
“Get your raggedy tail…”
“CJ, Clay, Jr.”
“Welcome to Bethlehem everyone.” “Thanks, now get us out.”
“I think the battery in my watch has gone dead.”
“I think time moves slower in Israel than it does back home.”
“Dern Duke.”
“First of all, I’m glad I was able to provide you with some entertainment. Secondly, you didn’t enjoy it as much as I did. Thirdly, that’s the ultimate way to spell relief.”
“Shut up whiny butt.”
“You’re a good looking German man.”

Food in Israel

I can’t eat another bite
Going to The Holy Land inspires lots of questions from your friends and family once you return home. But, despite the historical significance of the land, archeological findings, Israeli-Arab conflicts and other hot topics, the number one question asked was, “what did you eat?”

Israel is a land of many cultures and people groups and Jewish immigrants from countries around the globe. With each new conquering group or immigrant to arrive on Israel’s shore, so have the number of great recipes increased. I did not take the time to evaluate the fat content of the food, but it sure looked healthier than the many burgers and fried foods we Americans devour each day. Here is a sampling of the meals we enjoyed.

We were introduced to a traditional Israeli meal on our first evening in Israel after arriving at our hotel in Natanya. The first items to arrive at our table were the two things we ate the most the entire trip: hummus and pita bread. (More about these items later.) Next came potato salad with green peas, a green salad which consisted of lettuce, tomatoes, peas, peppers and a light dressing. Our waiter then brought a delicately fried filet of sole. I added lime juice, salt and pepper to my piece of fish and it was great. Next a deep bowl of hearty lentil and barley soup. No matter how many times I dipped my spoon for another bite, my soup never disappeared. Don’t panic like I did, we have not even started the main dish yet. Lastly, we enjoyed white rice smothered with tomatoes and bell peppers and a round steak smothered in brown gravy. The rice dish was akin to smothered okra and the steak was tender enough to cut with a fork. I thought to myself if this is how it’s going to be the entire trip I may even gain a pound or two.

Following our meal, the five of us rolled out of the restaurant and then strolled through the open shopping area along the Mediterranean Sea. As a cool breeze blew from the sea, we sipped filter coffees and enjoyed a lovely evening talking about the great sites we were going to see in the next nine days.

Breakfast the next morning consisted of fresh fruit, orange juice, corn flakes, (I tasted them again for the first time and Kellogg’s is by far the best), instant coffee, (no thank you), cottage cheese, soft cheese, yogurt, egg salad, smoked herring, cucumbers, vine ripened tomatoes and sliced bread. It is important to note, Chris was the only one man enough to eat the fish at 7:00 a.m.

Lunch the next day was hummus and pita bread, green salad, baked chicken, rice and vegetable soup.

Dinner that evening in Beit Hava was just as good as we dined on green salad, pickle chips, eggplant casserole, pickled artichokes, whipped potatoes in a puffed pastry shell, stir fry beef, baked chicken and plums for dessert.

As our group headed toward the Sea of Galilee and the city of Tiberias, much of the food remained the same although we enjoyed a few new items from the menu. Our hotel dining facility in Tiberias had a staff that was predominately Arab and many of the hotel quests were from the west, and food trends showed an influence of both cultures.

A very large spread in a dining hall that sat nearly 300 at one time was standard each morning for breakfast and in the evening for dinner. Our evening buffet featured a tasty apple-walnut salad, green salad, eggplant casserole, your basic vegetables of carrots, corn, beans, white rice, squash medley, sliced tomatoes and sliced cucumbers, etc. An interesting asparagus soup, fried fish, fried turkey breasts and meatloaf with a tomato gravy were our main entrees.

All of our meals were not restricted to hotel buffets. We enjoyed venturing into some very interesting restaurants as well. Here is a sampling of a few restaurants we enjoyed.

The Philadelphia – This Arab restaurant, located in the Arab section of East Jerusalem is well-known for some of the best salads in the city. Our friend, Omar insisted we sample every salad on the menu. So we did. I counted 12 different salads, but it could have been more because I was busy fighting off the ravenous gluttons sitting at my table. I sampled hummus, eggplant casserole, marinated cucumbers, olives, dates, pickled beets and several other tasty items. Next came lamb, lamb and then more lamb. Tender, delicately seasoned lamb chops and shish kebabs that didn’t last long. I was tempted to jab the others with one of my empty kebab stakes in order to get more lamb, but somehow I remained calm.

The Yeminite Step – This delightful café near the Ben Yahuda Mall, was the setting for one of our evening meals. Being cool and very pleasant, we opted to sit outside next to the portable furnace to enjoy great soups and tasty Melawach served with honey.

Cafeteria St. Michel – I strongly recommend this cozy cafeteria if you are hungry and need an economical lunch in the old city. Don’t expect to find a seat at noon because the twenty-five seats fill up quickly during this busy time of the day. Clay enjoyed a Greek salad with fresh vegetables and a tangy dressing. Robert enjoyed chicken soup and I feasted on vegetable soup. Chris and Jimmy devoured shwarma. I was full and it felt great to only spend 18 shekels for the meal.

Ramon’s – Another great restaurant in the Ben Yahuda shopping area, Ramon’s nearly takes up an entire side street with several sites on both sides of the street. Once again, we sat outside under clear skies and enjoyed a delicious meal as we watched evening shoppers scurrying in and out of adjacent stores.

Cacao – At the Cinematheque on Hebron Road, this restaurant offers a superb view of the Old City Walls while you dine on fresh vegetables, wonderful breads or perhaps an individual size pizza. I recommend the freshly baked focaccia bread with olive oil or one of the homemade pasta dishes or as Jimmy discovered, the fresh fish, such as salmon or trout is excellent. If the sky is clear, ask the waiter to let you sit outside on the patio and enjoy a hot cup of coffee or hot chocolate following your meal. Conversation will soon turn to the beauty of the Old City Walls and the historical setting, where people, like yourself, have gazed upon this moonlit edifice over the centuries.

Abu Ali – Once again, thank you Omar for showing us this Palestinian restaurant that is housed in the basement of several shops in East Jerusalem. If you are not from the area, you will never find this neighborhood establishment that definitely caters to the local crowd. The interior reminds you of Mel’s Diner, but more subdued because Flo wasn’t around. Omar ordered hummus, pita bread, hot pickles and a round of those great Coca-Cola’s in the small bottles. We ate more, but I can’t remember exactly what it was because I was too busy soaking in the atmosphere. A group of old men sat in one corner discussing politics while a few other patrons sat nearby taking curious glances at us between bites of pita bread. Now and then a few locals bounced in and out yelling at our Arab friends behind the serving counter and those seated at the other tables. Everyone seemed to know one another and it kind of made all of us feel at ease despite such a foreign environment.

And the Rest – No, this is not the name of a restaurant, but a heading for the rest of the eateries we found ourselves wondering into. We enjoyed every place we found, including McDonald’s where you could always count on a great cup of coffee.

Recipes from the Holy Land

Pitta Recipe
Ingredients for twelve pitas:
1 rounded tbs dried yeast
1 rounded tbs salt
2 rounded tbs honey
5-5 1/2 cups plain flour.

1. Mix the yeast, honey and 1/4 pint water in a bowl and leave to rest for 10 min. Measure out 3 1/4 cups flour and add the yeast mixture and 1 pint warm water.

2. Beat the mixture for 2 min., add the salt and remainder of the flour and beat again. Knead the dough on a floured board for 10 min. and then place in a greased bowl.

3. Leave the dough for 1 hour in a warm, draft-free place (it will double in volume). Pre-heat the oven to 445 degrees and divide the dough into twelve portions.

4. Roll each portion into a ball and then flatten into rounds about 2 1/4 – 2 1/2 inches thick. Allow to rise before cooking. Cook for 10 min. and then raise the temperature so that they brown.

Omar’s Hummus Recipe
1. Soak 2 pounds of chick peas in water for 24 hours. Cook in boiling water until soft. Drain water.

2. Put peas in blender until they are well blended. Not very long.

3. This is the tricky step. You must add the following ingredients according to your taste buds. Sesame oil, fresh garlic, lemon juice and salt. Olive oil can be used instead of sesame oil.

Omar Bakri Grandfather of the Arabs

Just beyond the Damascus Gate of the Old City of Jerusalem, the grandfather of the Arabs works in a tiny olive wood shop. Lining the shelves of the shop are hundreds of unique olive wood carvings all designed by the man who personally greets each visitor to the shop. Ironically, the man better known by family and friends as Omar, is actually named Nizar, which in Arabic means the “grandfather of the Arabs.” A name that strikingly fits this master olive wood carver whose works have spawned numerous would be copycat grandchildren seeking to achieve the same carving excellence Omar has achieved. One visit to the shop on 3 Masoudi Street and you immediately fall in love with the olive carvings and the man who greets his friends with a gentle hug and a wide smile. On our visit, Omar insisted we enjoy a cup of mint tea.

As is the case for many young boys, Omar was sometimes mischievous and found himself getting into trouble. His parents found a master olive carver who allowed Omar to work after school in his wood shop. His reward…staying out of trouble and fifty cents a week.

For seven years, Omar learned the art of carving olive wood. None of the master’s children desired to learn the family business, so he decided to teach Omar everything he knew. The most tedious part was learning how to carve the faces on the carvings, Omar said.

“He carved faces behind a door because he didn’t want anyone to see how he did them,” he said.

It took nearly 300 pieces of wood before Omar learned how to carve the eyes and the face, a technique that now separates him from most carvers in the Holy Land. In fact, Omar tells would-be buyers to look at the faces of his carvings and then go and compare his work with other carvers in the city. “Eighty percent come back to my shop,” a smiling Bakri says.

Drawing inspiration from his native land and the Bible, Omar’s work, as well as his reputation, continues to grow. Today, Omar’s carvings can be found on mantles on both sides of the Atlantic Ocean.

Despite the success, you can still find the humble, smiling Omar personally greeting his customers and discussing his native Palestine over a cup of mint tea.

By the way, how did the “grandfather of the Arabs” become known as Omar? Legend tells us, or maybe it was Omar himself who said, “in the 1970’s friends told me I looked like Omar Sharif, the actor. The name just kind of stuck.”

First Impressions of the Holy Land

“Leave us alone, we are not in a hurry,” I growled at the impatient motorist who was honking his horn at us as the light turned green. All around us, cars scurried by, dodging pedestrians, cyclists and other automobiles. The only thing that seemed to be the king of the road were city buses, and rightfully so considering their size and somewhat arrogance to do as they pleased on the crowded streets around the walled city. My mind was moving in slow motion, taking in all the sights and sounds as we approached the city walls of the old city for the first time. “The place which the Lord your God shall choose out of all your tribes to put His name there, even unto His habitation…(will be Jerusalem).” Deuteronomy 12:5

All my life I had heard the stories of this ancient city. For a moment, I was five years old listening to my Sunday school teacher tell me about a young boy named Jesus going into the temple. All of those wonderful Bible stories and the times and places when I heard them for the first time were rushing through my mind.

Gallantly standing in ancient wonder, the walls, the ramparts and gates stood bravely greeting our arrival. Despite the modern structures all around us and the hurried pace of their inhabitants, these impressive stone walls stood majestically toward the blue sky separating the old from the new.

Built between 1520 and 1566 by Sultan-Caliph Suleyman or Suleiman, on the lines of the Roman fortifications, these ancient structures remain much unchanged today. The ramparts were designed to protect Jerusalem from Bedouin raids or a possible Crusader attack and stand between 39 to 49 feet high and roughly 5330 yards long.

There are eight gates in the Old City fortress wall. The gates into the wall are the Jaffa Gate, entered from Mamilla-Agron Street or Jaffa Road, and the Damascus Gate, entered from Ha-Nevi’im or Nablus Road. Israelis call Damascus Gate Sha’ar Shechem because it led to the Syrian capital; the Arabic name is Bab el Amud or Gate of the Column. The Golden Gate has been bricked up for centuries, due to Muslim tradition a conqueror will enter through this gate to destroy the city and by another Muslim belief this will be the traditional entrance point for the Messiah.

Other gates include Herod’s Gate (or Flower Gate), due to belief of pilgrims that this gate was built next to the house of Herod Antipas the king. Zion Gate, the original gate is called by the Arabs, Bab el-Nabi Dahoud, “David’s Gate”, after the prophet. Maghreb Gate (Dung Gate) owes its name to the community from Maghreb, which settled below Haram el-Sharif at the end of the 12th century. St. Stephen’s Gate is also called the “Lions’ Gate”, due to the lions which the Mameluke sultan Baybars had carved in order to dispel a dream in which he was torn to pieces by an animal. Finally, the New Gate, built in 1889 at the request of the European powers in the northwest corner of the enclosure. It serves the Christian population.

In the Hebrew language, you do not say you will “go to Jerusalem.” I asked for clarification and found out the idiom is to “ascend” or “go up” to the city. Although Jerusalem stands at over 2500 feet above sea level, I soon discovered our journey through Israel would not be complete until
we ascended to Jerusalem. Jerusalem was the pinnacle of our journey into this awesome land.

The writer in the Knoph Guidebook, The Holy Land, illustrates my thoughts best. “Jerusalem is the incarnation of prophetic and Messianic dreams, the ‘center of the world’ mentioned 656 times in the Old Testament and 140 times in the New Testament, and the ‘throne of Allah’ in the Koran. Jerusalem in all its glory, whether idealized, symbolic or real, is a fertile ground for all imaginations and the subject of innumerable representations.”

“Then I saw a new heaven and a new earth, for the first heaven and the first earth had passed away, and there was no longer any sea. I saw the Holy City, the new Jerusalem, coming out of heaven from God…” Revelations 21: 1-2

The Western Wall