Israel Travel Diary
November 1996

The Trip

The following is an account of five travelers who embarked upon a journey to view time as it was and how it has become. The land...The Holy Land. As did Abraham who traversed The Fertile Crescent in search of the Promised Land, the Mameluke's, the Persians, the Muslims and many others, and now five Americans from New Orleans.

I now must step into first person because I will be your narrator. Hopefully you will have a glimpse into our journey and when you make your own journey, our steps, our stories and our words will guide you.

My travel companions:

Clay Corvin - He was our guide, driver, still photographer, resident archaeologist (in the absence of Dennis Cole), schedule maker and keeper (Masada in one hour-yea, right), and of course leader.

Jimmy Dukes - He was our New Testament scholar who related what we saw to Biblical accounts, chief humbler (don't need any whiny babies on this trip), devotional leader and all around funny guy.

Robert Cleland - Robert making his second trip told us what we were seeing when Clay "better get your hearing checked before your December paycheck" Corvin mumbled at certain historical sites. He was our insightful number two guide, personality balance between some of the men, and chief scripture finder.

Chris Friedman - By birth, a good looking German man, he was also the recipient of most of our jokes, yet provided much of the enthusiasm for the trip. He was our gift shop finder, our coffee and food taster and Guide (CJ) wannabe. He was the official video photographer and audio recorder.

Steve Achord - That's me, the official record keeper, note taker and journalist. I was also the skinniest of the five which meant when we traveled I rode in the back seat in the middle on the hump. I survived to tell about it and that is what I now must do.

The account is divided into smaller stories or articles that related to our journey. I hope to give insightful tips ranging from food in Israel, making the plane trip across the ocean more enjoyable to making it through Israeli Customs. Enjoy the ride.

The Long and Winding Road

Daddy, Are we There Yet?
I read once that the national sport of Israel is driving brashness because drivers tend to be impatient and aggressive. Sitting on the curve at Ben-Gurion Airport waiting for Clay to return with a rental car, I realized this was an accurate statement. Honking horns, rapid starts, sudden stops, speeding buses and five men in a Plymouth Neon would make for an interesting way to experience Israel.

Israel is a small country with many automobiles, all traveling quickly to their destinations. The American concept of interstate highways is quickly missed because main highways are rarely wide and straight. Many of the secondary roads are narrow with many curves, none of which create passing taboos for Israeli drivers. Despite narrow driving conditions, most roads tended to be maintained fairly well, with construction projects underway in several places. The city of New Orleans has more potholes than all the major U.S. cities combined, so it's not too bad. The driving/riding experience in Tel Aviv and Jerusalem can be compared to most cities in the world; lots of traffic, lots of people and few parking places. However, out on the open highway with the window rolled down there were many enjoyable sites and sounds to tempt the senses. Here are a few brief notes I took while riding in the back seat of our Neon that illustrates some of our experiences on the winding roads of Israel.

"At the end of our first day it is difficult to assess the day except we traveled a great deal and saw a lot. It was a long day, yet wonderful. Driving from place to place we pulled into our memories many wonderful sights, smells and sounds that basically said, 'welcome to Israel, the land of Abraham, David and of course Jesus.' There was so much to gather, but we didn't mind seeing so much of the land we had read about all of our lives."

"The excitement built as we descended from the north toward the Sea of Galilee. The sun was setting to the west casting an orange glow on the glassy water. The cool wind felt great against my face as a million thoughts about Jesus' ministry in this very area rushed through my mind."

"The old ways and the modern ways meet head-on as we pass large farms with miles and miles of irrigated farmland and then suddenly you see an old man walking behind a mule and plow tending to his fields."

"At every bus stop dozens of young people could be seen hitchhiking. Suddenly, I was in a 70's time warp in the states when hitchhiking idea was still popular and safe."

"Drove through another checkpoint as we headed into the West Bank. We all showed our passports and for a brief moment thought we may have to sacrifice Chris to the PLO to travel any further."

"Leaving Jacob's well we had to wait a minute for the man riding bareback on a donkey to pass our van."

"Just as it was in Biblical times, terrace farming along the mountain is still widely practiced."

"I didn't think I would be excited to see those golden arches in the distance, an American icon we take for granted, but it was great to take a break today."

Overall, riding in a car was the best way to see the country. We complained about tight quarters and limited leg room, but none of us would have traded the riding experience. I take that back, Jimmy would beg to differ as he held on to the dash, barely breathing, as Clay made one of those A.J. Foyt, passing in a mountain curve experiences on the way to Jerusalem. You can breath now Jimmy.

New Orleans to Tel Aviv and back home again

What to expect on the plane
New Orleans International Airport is in the midst of major renovations. For frequent travelers, it seems this has always been the case. Despite the construction, our departure from New Orleans went smoothly. At 12:11 p.m. on Wednesday afternoon, our plane was racing down the runway under cloudy skies and hot and humid conditions.

Our Delta Airlines flight to Atlanta was full, but with a great in-flight magazine, eight great audio channels and headphones on the plane, and of course peanuts and soft drinks, the hour flight passed quickly. The flight magazine Sky provided interesting articles and of course a listing of what to listen to while in the air. Articles about Joan Allen, (she played Pat Nixon in the screen version of Nixon) and Pat Boone and his latest project "Heavy and Metal" made great company. My favorite article in the November edition was "The Great Trunk Road." This informative article detailed travel by truck along the Route 66 of India and Pakistan.

We landed in Atlanta at 1:17 p.m. and ventured to the waiting area before boarding our Swiss Air flight to Zurich, Switzerland. Boarding the 747 took place at 4:05 p.m., but actual take off did not occur until 5:12 p.m. for the 4,684 mile, eight-hour flight.

The flight plan takes the plane up the Eastern Seaboard over Greensboro, North Carolina over New York City and Nova Scotia and then over the North Atlantic toward Europe. About an hour into the flight the aroma of airline food wafted through the cabin as flight attendants prepared to serve dinner. Traveling at 620 mph and 32,000 feet above sea level, our food was actually pretty tasty.

Dinner included: mineral water, two bistro rolls, (wheat and white), salad, similar to cole slaw, but with sliced sausage and walnuts, a stuffed chicken breast with a mushroom gravy. On the side were green peas, wild rice, butter and a cheese spread for the rolls. A double chocolate cake and hot coffee were served for dessert.

An interesting part of the Swiss Air flight was the video map that showed us continuous updates of our location. In several languages our coordinates were given visually. A larger map showing a white plane and its path was shown, as well as a more detailed map of the cities we were flying over. Next, our altitude, ground speed, outside air temperature, distance to destination, time to destination, local time at present position and the estimated arrival time were shown.

Two hours later the lights were dimmed and the Michael Keaton film, Multiplicity was shown. I had trouble staying focused on the somewhat confusing film so I tried to sleep. At 11:30 p.m., the lights were turned back on and hot, steamed towels were given out. A hot towel on your face can make you forget about any problems you may have encountered on the flight. I felt my pores tighten up and suddenly I was wide awake and ready to enjoy the cool orange juice being served.

At almost midnight New Orleans time and 5:30 a.m. local time, breakfast rolled down the aisle. This meal included: a roll served at room temperature, a mini croissant served hot, Danon strawberry yogurt, a small bunch of red grapes, a banana nut muffin, a wedge of Swiss cheese, butter, jelly, juice and coffee.

Shortly after eating breakfast we were over land again and small patches of lights could be seen below. From the window, the sun was barely visible. A small glow of orange sunlight peaked above the horizon. Just below the orange glow, a thin yellow line followed by another thin line of green streaked across the morning sky. These streaks of colors opened into a deep blue abyss. A very beautiful sight indeed. Good morning, Lord. Already you are putting the day's new colors on your giant canvas for me to enjoy.

At 1 a.m. New Orleans time, we arrived in Zurich. Despite a very cloudy morning, the city and country side was beautiful. Following a brief layover and tight security in Zurich, we boarded our next flight which took us to Israel.

The flight above the Alps is incredible. Snow-capped mountains standing majestically under now clear, deep blue skies reminded me of God's awesome creativity. Down below we saw a large lake nestled between the mountains. Watching and admiring the beautiful scenery made me hungry. Good thing lunch was on its way.

Lunch included: pea salad with a hard boiled egg wedge, chicken kiev with steamed broccoli and buttered noodles, pudding and Evian water. A very good lunch.

Following lunch, I napped for awhile and read the flight magazine. Near the end of the flight the hot towels were brought to us. I left mine on my face for about 10 seconds until the towel was cold. So refreshing. I was ready to hit Israel running now.

Tips to help you endure and even enjoy the plane trip:

1. Put everything you carry on the plane into the overhead bin. Leave as much room for your feet as possible so you can stretch out.

2. Bring your own reading material. I would suggest a good paperback that will last the entire flight if needed.

3. Put your basic toiletries in the top portion of your carry-on luggage. Nothing feels better than brushing your teeth and washing your face with a soft wash cloth you have brought from home after being on the go all day. Those brown towels you find in the lavatory are rough on your face.

4. Buy small locks for every piece of luggage and put the keys on a small chain around your neck. This gives you piece of mind while you travel.

5. Don't bother with your personal CD or cassette player. There is a wide selection of music on the plane and headphones were provided free of charge.

6. Pack a few snacks in your carry-on luggage in case your eating schedule differs from the airline's.

7. Drink lots of fluids, bottled water and juice, rather than carbonated beverages to help prevent jet lag.

8. Try and sleep. If you can sleep sitting up, get an aisle seat. If you need to lean against something to sleep, ask for a window seat.

9. Long sleeves if you are cold-natured.

10. Wear warm up pants for maximum comfort.

11. Wear heavy socks so you can kick off your shoes for the entire flight. I walked around in my socks and it felt great.

12. If you have the tendency to go to the restroom regularly or need to stretch often, get an aisle seat.

13. Buy one of those inflatable neck pillows to help you sleep better.

14. Try and watch the movie to help pass the time away.

15. Don't pass up the meals and beverages because they are already paid for and it makes you feel like you are getting your money's worth.

16. Bring along Tylenol PM if you need help falling asleep.

Going through Customs

We don't need any comedians now
Our first encounter with customs agents was in Zurich, Switzerland following an overnight transatlantic flight. Prior to boarding our plane from Zurich to Tel Aviv, agents asked us several questions about our trip into the country and our reasons for going to Israel. Sophisticated x-ray equipment checked our carry-on baggage and agents rechecked each piece. Don't be surprised if you are asked to step to another room for additional questions or a pat-down by one of the officials. These concerns are merely a safety precaution and these Swiss officials don't take a neutral stand on safety.

Prior to arrival in Tel Aviv, flight attendants from Swiss Air gave us a form to complete for our entrance into the country. In the airport, custom officials take a copy of this visa for themselves and return a copy to you. Don't lose this copy. Expect the same seriousness, if not more, from Israeli agents as you receive from the Swiss. Our entrance into the country was relatively quick with limited hassle.

Leaving the country is more time consuming and very thorough. Arrive early, be patient, and be cooperative with customs officials. For a 5 a.m. flight out of Israel, we arrived at Ben Gurion Airport at 1:45 a.m. to begin the process. At 2 a.m., we were allowed to place our bags in line for our first inspection. It's important to note many of the men and women who work in customs are young and look like they should be hanging out at a coffee shop studying for college exams. Don't let their age fool you. They take their job seriously, perform it seriously and know what they are looking for as they go through the tedious process of allowing travelers to enter and exit their country.

Step 1. Your bags are placed on a table where an agent takes yourairline ticket, passport and asks the initial questions about your recent visit to Israel. This person checks to see if the name on the luggage matches the tickets and passport. This agent reports his or her findings to the supervisor in the area.

Step 2. After passing this step, your luggage is taken to a large x-ray machine and your bags are scanned. If anything looks suspicious, you are asked to open your baggage for a visual inspection.

Step 3. If all is found to be okay, your bags are tagged with yellow stickers along with your ticket. Keep your entry certificate with you through these steps.

Step 4. Proceed to another line where your flight arrangements will be made and your boarding pass is issued.

Step 5. You are directed to another line which leads to an upstairs waiting area. Once again, your tickets, passports and carry-on baggage are checked to see if they belong to you.

Step 6. Congratulations, you have made it through customs and now you are free to shop until you drop in the duty free shopping area. This large wing houses a mini mall with a variety of shops and eating establishments. Although it is 3:00 in the morning, every shop is open and fully staffed to meet your needs.

Step 7. Prepare to Board. Your boarding pass is taken by another agent and you are directed downstairs to a waiting bus that will take you to the tarmac where you are allowed to board the airplane. Entering and exiting airplanes at Ben Gurion Airport is away from the main terminal and transportation to and from the planes requires a short ride by bus.

Step 8. Disembark from the bus and head up the outside ramp to the plane. There are lots of security officers watching the loading of the plane.

Step 9. Board the plane and find your seat.

Be polite when answering the many questions asked by customs officials. Do not leave your bags unattended. This is a security concern that will promptly bring officials to the unattended bags. Here are some of the questions you may be asked while going through customs:
- Why did you travel to Israel?
- Was your trip for business or personal reasons?
- Who planned your trip?
- Who do these bags belong to?
- Did you pack your luggage yourself?
- Do you have any friends or family in Israel?
- Who brought you to the airport and what is their relationship to you?
- Where did you go in Israel?

Additional Questions:
- Where did you spend the night while you were in Israel?
- What sites did you see in Jerusalem?
- What sections of Jerusalem did you visit?
- Where did you sleep in Jerusalem?
- What do you do for a living in the United States?
- Do you have a business card that identifies your place of employment?


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